


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 


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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 






















































































































THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR 


IN SILK 




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EMBROIDERY. 


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BELLI IN G- BROS, Sc CD 
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455 Broadway, New York, 

105 Summer St., Boston, 

6tii and Arch Sts., Philadelphia, 
28-30 St. George St., Montreal, 


136 Race St., Cincinnati, 
147-149 Fifth Aye., Chicago, 
521 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 
585 Market St., San Francisco. 



1883 . 






































Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1883, by 
Bidding Bros. & Co., 

in the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 



Pure Thread Silk. 


To make handsome articles in knit- 
ting and crochet; the best nf silk mnst 
be used, Belding Bras, & Ca. sell the 
best silk; at prices as lew as ethers 
charge for that which is inferior, 

It is not generally known that there 
are two kinds of knitting-silk in market] 
one made from pure thread silk; the 
other from spnn silk, The difference 
is very great, 

Thread silk is made by nnwinding 
cocoons; from each of which a single 
continuous thread or fibre of great 
length is obtained, Several of the 
continuous cocoon-threads being com¬ 
bined; are doubled and twisted a num¬ 
ber of times; until the finished thread 
is formed of the required thickness, 
No other known material has such a 
long fibre] consequently; silk thread; 
thus made; is stronger and more elestic 
than any other thread, 









Spun silk is made irem pierced or 
imperfect cccDcns whose fibres are 
broken, and frcm ether shert pieces 
□f silk fibre known as 11 wastE," none 
of which can be rEelEdj they are 
carded and spun like flax or cotton, 
Articles knit in spun silk soon acquire 
a dingy, dull, rough appearance, and 
will not wear) while thread silk is 
smooth, strong, and very lustrous, and 
will last for years with ordinary use, 
Knitting silk stamped with bine ink 
on the end of each spool n BElding 
Bros, & Co,, Superior Knitting Silk," 
is warranted made from pure thread 
silk, identical with that used by them 
in the manufacture of their well- 
known machine-twist and sewing- 
silk, 


i 






TABLE OF CONTENTS 


KNITTING AND CROCHETING. 

Page. 

Explanation of Terms used... 8 

General Rules for Knitting Stockings and Socks.10 

Table of Stitches. 9 

Knitted Bands . 13 

General Directions for Wristlets: Knitted...... 

Railroad Stockings: Knitted.16 

Bady’s Sock Crocheted. Illustrated. 15 

Lady's Mitten: Knitted. Illustrated... 17 

Gentleman’s Mitten: Knitted... ..... 18 

Saw Tooth Edge: Knitted. Illustrated. 19 

Baby’s Sack: Crocheted. Illustrated.20 

Suspenders: Knitted... 21 

Wide Lace: Crocheted. Illustrated. 21 

Baby’s Sock: Knitted. Illustrated.24 

Old Lady’s Hood: Knitted. Illustrated.25 

Crocheted Edge.26 

Checkered Holder: Knitted. Illustrated.26 

Puffed Wristlet; Crocheted...27 

Fascinator: Knitted, Illustrated.28 

Moss Edge: Knitted. 29 

Misers’ Purse: Crocheted. Illustrated. 30 

Baby’s Sack: Knitted. Illustrated.31 

Edge: Crocheted .27 

Rose 1 idy: Crocheted Illustrated. 33 

Insertion: Knitted. 34 

Baby’s Cap: Knitted. Illustrated. 35 

Fringe: Crocheted. Illustrated. ... 36 

Long Purse: Knitted. Illustrated.37 

Narrow Lace: Knitted.38 

Insertion: Crocheted. Illustrated...,. * .39 

Baby’s Mitten: Knitted. Illustrated.40 

Edge: Crocheted. Illustrated....41 

HOW TO WASH SILK-KNIT ARTICLES. 38 

Instructions for Beginners in Knitting and Crocheting. 42 





































vi 


CONTENTS 


EMBROIDERY. 

General Features of Embroidery.44 

Outline Stitches. Illustrated. 45 

Leaves in Kensington Stitch. Illustrated.46 

Flower in Kensington Stitch. Illustrated...48 

French Knots. Illustrated. 49 

Chain Stitches. Illustrated. .. ..... 5 

Fern, Veining and Feather Stitches. Illustrated. ..52 

Couching Stitches. Illustrated.52 

Tapestry Stitch. Illustrated..,...50 

Balloon Stitch. Illustrated.60 

Border for Table Scarf, introducing New England Stitch, Long Knots and 

Satin Stitch. Illustrated. ,<>-...57 

Lamp Shade, introducing Cordonnet, and Long Herring-bone Stitches. [Illus¬ 
trated. 58 

Book Cover. Illustrated. 61 

Fan. Illustrated.62 

Fan. Illustrated. 63 

I ignre for Border in Fancy Stitches or Applique. Illustrated...65 

Sofa Pillow. Illustrated.68 

Outline Design. Illustrated. 66 

Outline Design. Illustrated.67 

Jap tnese Design in Outline or Fancy Stitches. Ilustrated.53 

Clock for Stockings: Side. Illustrated.55 

Clock for Stockings: Side. Illustrated..55 

Clock for Stockings: Top. 1 ilustrated. 56 

Border. Illustrated.54 

Border. Illustrated.64 

Border. Illustrated. 67 


Silk Manufacture 


69 


































TO OUR READERS. 


This book refers solely to working in silk; each one of the arti¬ 
cles described has been actually made in that material. In this 
respect the book differs from others in which methods have been 
adopted from worsted work which give unsatisfactory results in 
silk. 

The directions here given were prepared by Miss Van Dyck, 
who has been for some years a teacher of the art, and knows the 
difficulties that pupils often encounter. By actual test it has been 
ascertained that ladies who have not li d the advantages of per¬ 
sonal teaching, with only these instructions communicated by let¬ 
ter, are able to make the articles described, and produce handsome 
and satisfactory work. 

The embroidery designs are all new and original, prepared ex¬ 
clusively for this book. A great variety of fancy stitches is pre¬ 
sented; more than can be found elsewhere. The knitted and 
crocheted work is partly original and partly selected, the selections 
being made from a scattered range of publications, mostly foreign 
and not generally accessible. 

Not only are the patterns exclusively adapted for silk, but also 
the colors are named for each article. Consequently, by sending 
for Belding Bros. & Co.’s silk, according to the colors specified, and 
following the book directions, the articles when finished will be 
found artistic in combination of colors as well as in design. 

It is supposed that most of our readers have a knowledge of the 
rudiments of knitting and crochet work. But in order to make this 
book of service to all who wish to acquire the art, a chapter of 
‘ Instructions to Beginners” has been placed at the end of the di¬ 
rections for working patterns in knitting and crocheting. 



TERMS USED IN KNITTING. 


K. —Knit plain. 

P.— Purl, or as it is sometimes called, seam. 

N. or K 2 to. —Narrow by knitting two together. 

Over.—Throw the thread over the needle before inserting it in 
. the next stitch. This makes a loop which is always to be consid¬ 
ered a stitch in the succeeding rounds. 

Tw—Twist stitch. Insert the needle in the back of the stitch 
to be knitted, and knit as usual. 

SI. —Slip a stitch from the left hand to the right-hand needle 
without knitting it. 

SI. and b.— Slip and bind. Slip one stitch, knit the next, pass 
the slipped one over it, exactly as in binding off a piece of work at 
the end. 

*—Indicates a repetition, and is used merely to save words. ‘ ‘ * 
SI. 1, k. 1, p 1, repeat three times,” would be equivalent to saying 
“SI. 1, k. 1, p. 1, si. I, k. 1, p. 1, si. 1, k. 1, p. 1.” 


TERMS USED IN CROCHET. 


Ch. —Chain. 

Sc. —Single Crochet. Having a stitch on the needle, put the 
needle through the work and draw the silk through both the work 

and the sti'ch on the needle. 

Dc —Double Crochet. Having a stitch on the needle, put the 
needle through the work and draw a stitch through, making two on 
the needle. Take up the silk again and draw it through both these 
stitches. 

Tc. or T>. —Treble Crochet. Having a stitch on the needle, 
take up the silk as if for a stitch, put the needle through the work 
and draw a stitch through, making three on the needle. Take up 
the silk and draw through two, then take up again and draw through 
the two remaining. 

Stc. or Str. —Short Treble Crochet. Like treble, except that 
when the three stitches are on the needle, instead of drawing the 
silk through two stitches twice, it is drawn through all three at 
once. 

Ltc. or Ltr. —Long Treble Crochet. Like treble, except that 
the silk is thrown twice over the needle before inserting the latter 
in the work. The stitches are worked off two at a time, as in treble. 

*.—Same as in Knitting. 






T1IE CONTRAST 


BELDIEG 


BETWEEN 


3R0S. & 


“SUPERIOR” 



Pure Thread KNITTING SILK, 

AND THE 


KNITTING SILK M/DE BY OTHEI} MANUFACTURERS. 


Belding’s Silk may cost a trifle 
more than spun silk, but it is really 
cheaper. 

-o- 

In making the article with Beld¬ 
ing’s Silk, all its parts will have a 
uniform lustre. 

-O- 

After months of handling and 
wear, the article made of Belding’s 
Silk retains its freshness and brill¬ 
iancy. 

•-o- 

Articles made of Belding’s Silk 
wear well, last a very long time, 
and keep their beauty to the last. 


Spun Silk, being made of waste 
material, should be sold for less 
than Belding’s Silk. 

——o- 

The article made of spun silk 
will have no lustre : the parts that 
are most handled in making will 
lose their brightness. 

-o- 

After a few weeks’ use the article 
made of spun silk looks as if made 
of cotton. 

-o- 

Articles made of spun silk, be¬ 
sides becoming shabby, wear out 
very soon. 


Don't allow your shopkeeper to impose upon you by selling you some 
other silk and representing that it is “just as good as Belding s." 



















BROAD SILKS. 


BELDING BROS. & CO., 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

GROS GRAINS, SURAHS, 


SATINS, 

MOSCOVITES, 

SERGES, 

OTTOMANS, 


* 

SLEEVE LININGS, See. 

Belding’s Silk Hosiery, 

Best Quality ; Permanent Lustre ; Unequalled for Wear. 


Guaranteed Superior to any other in this 

Country, 





TABLE 05' STITCHES FOR LADIES' AND 
CHILDREN’S STOCKINGS. 


Sh 

o g 
<o 

N O 

m 

CD 

<u 

A , 

S Pf 

; a o 

» 

V, g 

o S 

o 

fc 

No. of rounds 
before narrowing, 
including ribbed 
or fancy band. 

No. of stitches for 

ankle alter 

narrowing is com. 

pie ted.. 

No of plain 

rounds in ankle. 

No. of plain 

rounds in foot. 

before narrowing 

for toe. 

5* 

97 

130 

59 

36 

42 

6 * 

105 

14G 

67 

40 

68 

7 * 

113 

175 

77 

58 

67 

8* 

127 

207 

81 

85 

90 

*t 

141 

252 

95 

72 

74 

r-4C1 

00 

145 

256 

99 

76 

85 

9t 

149 

261 

105 

81 

92 


151 

265 

109 

94 

96 


TABLE OF STITCHES FOR GENTLEMEN’S 

SOCKS. 


i 

Size of sock. 

Ul 

<v 

A 

-*-> o 

Cfi 

«M 5 

o ^ 

o 

O 

fc 

No. of rounds 
in leg, including 
ribbed band. 

No. of plain 
rounds in foot 
before narrowing 
for toe. 

9 

108 

186 

99 

10 

112 

207 

103 

11 

119 

220 

110 


* ChRaren’s size. t Ladies’ size. 

All these estimates are based on a scale of 14 stitches and 18 
rounds to the inch. 

































10 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR STOCKING 

KNITTING. 


Cast on the required number of stitches. This in a plain 
stocking should be a number divisible by three, with one over, and 
they are distributed on three needles, the needle containing the odd 
stitch being known as the first needle. If a fancy pattern is used, 
the number of stitches will, of course, be governed by the pattern. 

CASTING ON. 

The casting on may be done on three needles, or on one; if on 
one needle, the proper number of stitches must be slipped off on 
the other two needles. When wool is used, the stitches are usually 
knitted on with two threads, but this should never be done in silk. 

The correct way of casting on is as follows: Make a slipknot 
on the left hand needle for the first stitch, insert the right-hand 
needle in it, and knit one stitch, but instead of slipping the first 
stitch off of the left-hand needle, slip the stitch just made on to 
the left hand needle, making two stitches. Repeat until you have 
the required number of stitches. 

BIBBED BAND. 

Knit one round plain, then begin the ribbed band. Knit two, 
purl two alternately, until the band is one inch broad, for a lady's 
stocking, or three inches for a gentleman’s sock. Instead of this 
band a pretty fancy pattern may be substituted. Now knit plain 
all round, except the middle stitch on the first needle, which should 
always be purled, for a “seam stitch.” Continue until the point is 
reached where the leg begins to taper, or about the middle of the 
calf. 

NARROWINGS. 

Knit to within five stitches of the seam, then knit two together, 
knit three plain, seam, knit three plain, slip one, knit one, pass the 
slipped stitch over. Knit the rest of the round plain. Knit four 
more plain rounds, then narrow again in the same way. Repeat 
until you have made six narrowings with four plain rounds between 
each. Then make five narrowings, with five rounds between each, 
four with six rounds between, three with seven rounds between, 
and two with eight rounds between. 

These numbers must be varied, of course, with the size of the 
stocking, the ones given being for a lady’s stocking of medium size. 
The best way is to measure a well-fitting stocking. Find out by 
counting how many rounds you knit to the inch. The number 
varies with nearly every knitter. Now measure on the sample 
stocking the number of inches between the middle of the calf and 
the ankle, multiply by the number of rounds to the inch, and you 
will have the number of rounds in which the narrowings must be 
made. Measure also the width of the sample stocking at the ankle, 
and ascertain the number of stitches that must be left on the needles 



11 


at that point. This number subtracted from the number you have 
at the calf, will show you how many stitches are to be disposed of, 
and you can distribute the narrowings accordingly. Make them 
quite close together at first, with a constantly increasing distance 
between them as you near the ankle. Knit the ankle plain. 

HEEL. 

Now divide the stitches, of which there should be an odd 
number, in two parts, putting half the stitches and the extra stitch 
on one needle. This extra stitch should be the seam stitch, and 
should come in the middle of the needle. The rest of the stitches 
are divided equally on two needles, and disregarded for a time. 
Knit back and forth on the heel needle (the one containing the 
seam-stitch), until you have knit as many rows as there are stitches 
on the needle. 

In knitting back, be careful to purl all the stitches, except the 
seam stitch, so as to keep the work “right side out;” also, slip the 
first stitc li of every row instead of knitting it, in order to form an 
elastic edge. In the last tour or five plain rows, narrow on each 
side of the seam, to give the heel a slight curve. Now knit to the 
middle of the needle, turn the two needles back to back, or so 
that the heel is wrong side out, and with an extra needle bind off, 
knitting the seam-stitch first, and afterwards inserting the right- 
hand needle always in one stitch of each left-hand needle, treating 
.he two as one stitch. This completes the heel. 

GUSSETS. 

You have now two instep needles with an equal number of 
stitches on each, and a heel needle with one stitch in the middle of 
the heel. Holding the stocking with the heel in front of you, begin 
on the side of the heel nearest the left hand, and pick up the stitches 
along the edge of the heel, knitting them on to the heel needle as 
you proceed. Knit across the instep needles, putting the stitches 
from both needles on one. Pick up and knit the stitches from the 
other side of the heel, putting them on a third needle. You now 
have all the stitches on three needles, one on the left of the heel, 
known as the first side needle, one across the instep, or instep 
needle, and one on the left of the heel, or second side needle. 

Now knit one round, increasing one in every third stitch on 
e ich side needle. The best way of doing this is to insert the needle 
in the back of the stitch to be widened, knit one, as if for a twist- 
stitch, and before slipping it off of the needle, knit one plain in the 
same stitch. Before beginning the next round, slip two stitches 
from the instep needle on to the side needles. Knit plain until 
within four stitches of the end of the first side needle, slip and 
bind, knit two plain. Knit the instep needle plain, knit two stitches 
plain on the second side needle, narrow, knit the rest plain. Repeat 
these narrowings in every round until the total number of stitches 
is the same as at the ankle. Knit plain until the too is reached. 

TOE 

Now put half the stitches on the instep needle, and divide the 
other half equally between the two side needles. Beginning with 
the first side needle, knit to within four stitches of the end of the 


12 


needle, slip and bind, knit two plain. On the instep needle, knit 
two plain, knit two together, knit to within four stitches of the end, 
slip and bind, knit two plain. On the second side needle, knit two 
plain, knit two together, knit the rest plain. Knit two rounds 
plain. Repeat the three rounds (the narrowing round and the two 
plain) until the toe is long enough; then slip the stitches from the 
two side needles on to one needle, lay this and the instep needle 
together, and bind off as in the heel, but on the right side. This 
makes a flat toe, and is the shape of the best imported stockings. 

BOUND TOE. 

A round or pointed toe is knit in the following manner: Divide 
the stitches equally on the three needles. • Knit one round, narrow¬ 
ing when within three stitches of each end of each needle. Knit 
three rounds plain, then narrow as before. Three rounds plain 
again, and another r^und of narrowing. Then two rounds plain, 
narrow, two rounds plain. After this narrow at the end only of 
each needle, in every round, until all are knit off. 

CARLISLE TOE. 

What is called the Carlisle toe is knit as follows: Make the 
number of stitches divisible by seven, narrowing off one or two, if 
necessary. Then narrow after every five stitches all round. Knit 
five plain rounds. Narrow after every four stitches and knit four 
plain rounds. Narrow after every three stitches, and knit three 
plain rounds. Narrow after every two stitches and knit two plain 
rounds. Narrow after every other stitch and knit one plain round. 
Knit two together all round until only one stitch remains. This 
makes a very long pointed toe, liked by but few people. 

MARGARET HEEL. 

Another way of knitting the heel, which is much liked by many 
people is called the Margaret heel. It is produced as follows: After 
knitting the heel of the desired length, knit to the middle of the 
needle, then knit two plain, knit two together, knit one, and turn 
back, disregarding the remainder of the stitches. Purl to the 
middle of the row, purl two, purl two together, purl one, turn back. 
Repeat these two rows until all the side stitches are taken up. Tho 
heel is then completed. 

LOUISA AND SARAH HEELS. 

The Louisa heel is but slightly different. After reaching the 
middle, knit three instead of two, then knit two together, knit one 
as before. Still another variation is called the “Sarah heel,” and 
is most suitable for a child’s sock or stocking. Knit to the middle 
of the row, knit two, slip and bind, turn back. Purl to the middle 
Ox the row, purl two, purl two together. Turn back. 

These directions are applicable to all sizes of stockings. The 
tables give the number of stitches for the different sizes. 

gentlemen’s socks. 

Silk socks are knit after the same manner, except that the leg 
is shorter, and in many cases ribbed the entire length, A good rule 


13 

for the ribs is three stitches plain, two purled. The leg should not 
be narrowed at all, but knit of the same size its entire length. If 
narrowed it is apt to slip down around the ankle in a very uncom¬ 
fortable manner. A tight knitter should use No. 16 needles. A 
loose knitter may use No. 17 or 18. The sizes of the needles given 
throughout this book correspond with the English standard. The 
German is two sizes smaller. Thus, if a No. 17 needle is directed, 
and German needles are used, a No. 19 should be chosen. The 
quantity of silk required varies. Two ounces for children’s stock¬ 
ings, two and a half for socks, three and a half for ladies’ medium 
length stockings, and four for very long stockings, are the average 
quantities. 


FANCY BANDS FOR STOCKINGS OR 
MITTENS, KNITTED. 


A fancy band is often substituted for the ribbing at the top of 
stockings, and the same pattern repeated across the instep, or down 
the entire length of the leg. We give several patterns, selected 
from various sources. After casting on, it is always best to knit 
one plain row before beginning the pattern. 

peacock’s tail. 

Make the number of stitches divisible by 10. 

1st round.—K. k 2, over and k. 1 live times, over, k. 2, p. 1. 

Repeat. 

2d round.—K. 2, p. ill, k. 2, p. 1. Repeat. 

3d round.—N., k. 11, n., p. 1. Repeat. 

4th round.—N., k. 9, n., p. 1. Repeat. 

5th round —N., k. 7, n., p. 1. Repeat. 

Repeat from first round. . < ' 

PLAITED BAND. 

Make the number of stitches divisible by 13. 

1st round.—Over, si. and b., k. 7, over, si. and b., k. 2. Repeat. 

2d and every alternate round.. Plain. 

3d round.—K. 1, *, over, si. and b., k. 4, n., k. 1, over, si. and b., 
k. 2. Repeat from *. 

5th'round.—K. 2, over, si. and b., k. 2, n., over, k. 3, over, si. and 
b. Repeat. 

7th round,—K- 3, * over, si. and b., n., over, k. 2, n., over, k. 1, 
over, si. and b., k. 2- Repeat from *, eijcling with si. and b. 
9th round,—Over, si, and b., k, 2, si. ai}d b., over, k. 2, n., over, 
k. 3. Repeat. 

J|lh round.—K. 1, * over, si. and b., over, k. 2, over, k,. 2, n., pye^ 
It, 5. Repeat from *, ending with k. 4, 






14 


13th round.—K. 2, si. 1, n., pass slipped over, over, k. 2, n., over, 
k. 7. Repeat from *, ending with k. 5. 

15th round.—K. 1, * n., over, k. 2, n., over, k. 1, over, si. and b., 
k. 4. Repeat from *, ending with k. 3. 

17th round.—N, over, k. 2, n., over, k. 3, over, si. and b., k. 2. 
Repeat. 

19th round.—N., over, k. 2. n., over, k. 1, over, si. and b., k. 2, 
over, si. and b. Repeat. 

21st round.—K. 2, n., over, k. 3. over, si. and b., k. 2, over, si. and 
b. Repeat. 

23d round. — K. 1, * n., over, k. 5, over, si. and b., k. 2, over, si. and 
b, Repeat from*. 

Begin again at first row. This is a very pretty stitch, but is 
sometimes a little puzzling to inexperienced knitters from the fact 
that the end of the round changes its place on the needle. The 
simplest way of obviating the difficulty is to mark the commence- 
mentof each round by a bit of thread knitted in with the first stitch. 

GERMAN ROSE-LEAF. 

Make the number of stitches divisible by 6. 

1st round.—K. 1, over, ntw., (narrow twisted, or, in other words, 
insert the needle in the backs of two stitches and knit as 
one,) k. 1, n., over. Repeat. 

2d and every alternate round. Plain. 

3d and 5th round. Like 1st. 

7th round—K. 2, over, k. 3 together twisted, over, k. 1. Repeat. 
9th round.—K. 1, n., over, k. 1, over, n. Repeat. 

11th and 13th rounds.—Like 9th. 

15th round.—Slip the last stitch of the last needle on to the first 
needle. Then k. 3 together, over, 3 tw., over. Repeat. 
Begin again at first row. 

VINE PATTERN. 

Make the number of stitches divisible by 7 
1st round.—SI. and b., k. 5, over. Repeat. 

2d round.—SI. and b., k. 4, over. Repeat. 

3d round.—SI. and b., k. 3, over. Repeat. 

4th round.—SI. and b., k. 2, over. Repeat. 

6th round.—SI. andb., k. 1, over. Repeat. 

6th round.—SI. and b., over. Repeat, 

7th round.—N., k. 1, over. Repeat. 

8th round.—N., k. 2, over. Repeat. 

9th round.—N., k. 3, over. Repeat. 

10th round.—N., k. 4, over. Repeat. 

11th round.—N., k. 5, over. Repeat. 

Begin again at 2d round. 

LACE PATTERN. 

Make the number of stitches divisible by 17. 

1st round.—Over, n, k. 1. over, n., k. 2, over, k. 1, over k. 1 
n., k. 3, n., k. 1. Repeat. 

2d and every alternate round. Plain. 

•d round.—Over, n., k. 1 over, n., k. 2, over, k. 3, over, k, 1, n 
k. 1, n., k. 1. Repeat. 


15 


i 


5th round.—Over, n., k. 1, over, n., k. 2, over, k. 5, over, k. 1, k. 
3 together, k. 1. Repeat. 

7th round.—Over, n., k. 1, over, n., n., k. 3, n., k. 1, over, k. 1, over, 
k. 3. Repeat. 

9th round—Over, n., k. 1, over, n., n., k. 1, n., k. 1, over, k. 3, over, 
k. 3. Repeat. 

11th round.—Over, n., k. 1, over, n. k. 4, over, k. 3, over, k. 3. 
Repeat. 

12tli round.—Plain. Repeat from 1st round. 

KNOTTED PATTERN. 

Make the number of stitches divisible by 9. 

1st round.—Over, si. 1, k. 2 to. pass slipped* stitch over. Repeat. 
2nd round.—O., k. 1, k. 2 in 1 (one twist and one plain in the same 
stitch.) Repeat. 

3rd round.^Over, k. 3. Repeat. 

4tli round.—K. 4, over, k 8, over, k. 4. Repeat. 

5th round.—Always k. 2 to. 

6th round.—Plain. 

Repeat from the beginning. 

Wristlets. 

Any of these patterns will make pretty 'wristlets. The usual 
number of stitches cast on for a lady’s wristlet of small size is 80, 
for medium size 85, large size 90, and for gentlemen’s 95 to 100. 
These numbers vary slightly with the pattern chosen and the tight¬ 
ness of the knitting. Use No. 18 needles. 

Baby’s Socks in Panel Stitch, Crocheted. 



foundation, and beginning with 


Materials: i oz. blue knitting 
silk, a very little white knitting 
silk, and a medium sized cro¬ 
chet hook. 

This pretty stitch is worked, 
in nearly the same manner as 
crazy stitch, but being worked 
round and round instead of 
back and forth, the effect is en¬ 
tirely different. With the blue 
silk make a chain of 31 stitches, 
very loose, as it will draw up in 
working and make a non-elas¬ 
tic edge if care is not taken in 
this respect. Join in a round. 
1st round.—1 dc. in the first 
stitch of the chain, 2 ch., 3 tr. 
in the same stitch in which the 
dc. was placed, thus giving the 
effect of 4 tr. in one stitch of 
the foundation. Repeat, al¬ 
ways missing one ch. of the 
1 dc. 2nd round.—1 dc. between 


the two chain and the first treble in the preceding round, 2 ch., 3 






The Best is the Cheapest. 


Time, patience and money are thrown 
away if you buy inferior Knitting Silk. 

The labor of making articles in Knit 
work or Crochet is at least as 
great with the inferior spun 
silk as with Beldin cr’s 

o 

“SUPERIOR” 

PURE THREAD KNITTING SILK. 

The first cost is very nearly tlie same, but 
the results are widely different. An article 
made of spun silk soon loses its lustre ; it 
becomes dull and shabby, and wears out in 
a short time. Articles made with Belding’s 
Pure Thread Knftting Silk keep bright, and 
wear much longer than any other silk goods. 




( 


if 

Lady’s Mitten.—Knittlu 

Materials: 1 oz. seal brown 
and 4 oz. scarlet knitting silk. 

Four No. 17 steel needles. 

Cast on with the brown 
silk, 80 stitches, (26 on two 
needles, and 28 on the third,) 
and knit around plain. Then, 

1st round.—Over, si. and b , 
over, si. and b., k. 2, over, 
si. and b., over, si. and b. 

Repeat. 

2d and every alternate round. 

—Plain. 

3d round. Over, si. and b., 
over, si. and b., over, k. 2, 
over, si. and b., over, si. 
and b. Repeat. 

5th round.—Over, si. and b., 
over, si. and b., k. 2, over, 
si. 1, n., pass slipped over, 
over, si. and b. Repeat. 

7tli round.—Over, si. and b., 
over, lc. 3, over, si. 1, n., 
pass slipped over, over, si. 
and b. Repeat. 

9th round.—Over, si. and b., 
over, k. 4, n., over, si. and 
b. Repeat. 

11th round.—Over, si. and b., 
over, si. and b., k. 3, over, 
si. and b., k. 1. Repeat. 

Begin again at first round. 

Repeat this pattern five or 
six times, or until the wrist is 
long enough. Knit once around, 
narrowing once in every twenty 
stitches, so as to leave seventy-six in all. Knit six rounds plain. Now 
at the beginning of the first needle, knit one, widen, knit three, widen, 
knit the rest of the round plain. (Widening, in silk, should always 
be done by knitting one twist and one plain stitch in the same 
loop.) Knit three rounds plain, then widen as before, but this 
time knit five plain stitches between the widenings. Three plain 
rounds, and widen with seven plain stitches between. Continue 
in this way, widening in every fourth row and always adding two 
plain stitches between the widenings, until you have eleven rows of 
widenings. There should be twenty-three plain stitches between 
the widenings in the last row. Slip these twenty-three stitches, 
together with the one on each side, (twenty-five stitches in all,) off 
on a bit of twine, and tie them. Disgarding them for the present, 
knit round and round plain forty-seven rounds. 

Now beginning directly over the thumb stitches, that is, in a 

direst line witli tkem, knit five, narrow, knit four, narrow, knit foin> 



/ 



















































18 


teen, nai'row, knit four, narrow, knit ten, narrow, knit fourteen, 
narrow, knit four, narrow, knit five. This completes one round. 
Knit five rounds plain, and in the sixth round narrow again, directly 
over the other narrowings. Knit four rounds plain and narrow as 
before. Knit two rounds and narrow. Repeat three times more, 
then knit one round narrowing after every alternate stitch. Slip 
the remaining stitches on a bit of stout sewing silk and draw them 
up tight, fastening the silk off on the wrong side This makes a 
better finish than can be produced by narrowing off all the stitches. 

Put the thumb stitches back on the needles, picking up two 
extra stitches from the hand, at the place where the gusset is 
usually made. Knit plain twenty-six rounds, then knit three 
stitches, narrow, repeat all round. Knit one round and narrow 
again. Blip the stitches off on a bit of silk and draw up, as in the 
hand. Now, with the scarlet silk, pick up all the “casting on” 
stitches at the wrist and knit around plain until you have a scarlet 
piece as long as the wrist of the mitten. Bind off very loosely and 
hem it up for a lining to the wrist. 

With a little care this can be done so that the hemming does not 
show on the right side. The scarlet lining is very pretty, se( n 
through the open meshes of the wrist, and adds greatly to tbe 
warmth of the mitten. A tiny bow of scarlet ribbon on the top of 
the wrist is also a great improvement. This mitten is of medium 
size, and can easily be altered to fit a very large or small hand. The 
number of stitches for the pattern in the wrist must always be 
divisible bj 7 ten. 


Gentleman’s Mitten.—Knitted. 

Materials: 1.1 ounces knitting silk, and four No. 17 needles. 
Cast on 108 stitches. 

1st and 2nd rounds.—K. 1, p. 5. Repeat. 

3rd and 4th rounds.—K. 2, p. 3, k. 1. Repeat. 

5th and 6th rounds.—K. 3, p. 1, k. 2. Repeat. 

7th and 8th rounds.—P. 3, k. 1, p. 2. Repeat. 

9th and 10th rounds.—P. 2, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat. 

11th and 12th rounds.—P. 1, k. 5. Repeat. 

Repeat from first round, until the wrist is long enough. Then 
knit two rounds plain, knit to the middle of a needle, purl one, 
widen, knit one, widen, purl one. Knit the rest of the round and 
five subsequent rounds plain, except that the purled stitches must 
always be purled. In the sixth round widen again inside of the 
seam stitches. Repeat, widening every sixth round, until there are 
thirty-seven stitches between the purled stitches. Slip these off on 
a cord. 

Cast on fifteen extra stitches between the purled stitches, and 
knit around plain until the hand is long enough to reach the base 
of the third finger nail. (About three and a half inches.) Then 
narrow at the beginning of each needle; knit four rounds plain, 
narrow, knit three rounds plain, narrow, two rounds plain, nar¬ 
row, one round plain, narrow every time until but two stitches are 


19 


left. Draw the end of the silk through both, and fasten on the 
wrong side. 

Put the thumb stitches back on the needles, and also pick up 
the fifteen cast on in the hand. Knit one plain round, then knit 
these fifteen stitches off by twos, that is, always taking two together 
in every round until all are taken off. Knit plain until the thumb 
is long enough. Half the length of the hand from the division to 
the point is a good rule. Narrow at the beginning of each needle 
in every round until but two stitches are left, then finish as in the 
hand. 


Saw Tooth Edging.—Knitted 



Cast on 10 stitches, knit across plain. 

2d row.—K. 6, over, n., (knit 2 together), k. 1, over, k. 1. 

3rd and every alternate row. Purled. 

4th row.—K. 5, over, n., k. 1, over, k. 3. 

6th row.—K. 4, over, n., k. 1, over, k 5. 

8th row.—K. 3, over, n., k. 1, over, k. 3, over, n., k. 2. 
lOtli row.—K. 2, over, n., k. 1, over, k. 4, over, n., k. 3. 

12th row.—K. 1, over, n., k. 1, over, k. 5, over, n., k. 4. 

Uth row.—K. 3, over, k. 6, over, n., k. 5. 

16th row.—K. 2, over, k. 7, over, n., k. 6. 

18th row.—K. 1, over, k. 1, * over, n. Repeat from* to end of row. 
20th row.—K. 2, over, k. 1,* over, n. Kepeat. 

21st row.—Bind off 10 stiches, purl 10. 

22nd row.—PlAin. 

23rd row.—Purled. Repeat from 2nd row. 

1, oz. silk will make two yds. of this edging. Use No. 17 needles. 
It is particularly pretty for flannel skirts if knit of white Saxony, 
and a narrow silk edge crocheted around the points. 



20 


Baby’s Sack.—Crocheted. 



Materials: 3 oz. knitting silk, and a medium sized crochet liook. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 108 stitches. Turn, make 3 
ch, then a shell of 3 long treble in every fourth chain until you have 
11 shells. The sixth shell has 6 long trebles, then 6 shells of 3 ltr., 

) shell of 6 ltr., G shells of 3 ltr., 1 shell of 6 ltr., 11 shells of 3 ltr. 
This completes the row. Work backwards and forwards, always 
putting the shells between those of the preceding row, and put¬ 
ting 6 ltr. in the preceding six, thus widening three times in 

each row, on each shoulder and in the back. Make 10 rows, 

then work from the edge to the first shoulder, turn and work 

back. Make 10 rows in this way, without widening. This make 

one front, to the lower part of the armhole. Work the other 
front in the same way, and also the back, except that tho 
widening must be continued down the middle of the back. After 
the 10 rows have been worked on each of the three parts, join, and 
work back and forth all the way across again, widening only in the 
middle of the back (where it must always be widened in each row). 
Make 16 rows below the armhole. This completes the body of the 
sack. For the sleeves, crochet round and round in the armhole, 
putting the shells between the rows, The widening of the shouldef 



21 


should be continued all the way down the sleeve, but to keep the 
sleeve straight, narrow in every rounds alternately on the right and 
left of the widening. For instance, in the first round, narrow on 
the right of the widening ; in the second round on the left; in the 
third on the right again, etc. The narrowing is done by simply 
missing one shell. 17 rounds complete the sleeve. 

Put a row of trebles separated by three chain around the neck, 
to make a place for the cord, and finish with a scallop shell all 
around sack and sleeves. A pretty scallop is 1 sc., in the space 
between two shells, 2 ch., 6 ltr. in the same space, 1 sc. between 
the second and third ltr. of the following shell, repeat. A cord of 
the silk or a narrow ribbon slioiild be run in the neck to tie in front. 

Suspenders in German Brioche Stitch.— 

Knitted. 

Materials: £ oz. knitting silk, and two No. 17 knitting needles. 
Cast on 48 stitches and knit one row plain. 

2d. row.—SI. 1, over, k. 2 together, repeat to the end of the row. 

3d. row.—K. 1, si. 1, over, k. 2 together, * si. 1, over, k. 2 together, 
repeat from *. 

Every succeeding row is like the third. Care should be taken 
always to slip the stitch that was made by putting the thread over 
in the previous row, and knit the stitch that was slipped before. 
Two of these straps should be made, each 21^ inches long. It is 
not necessary to line them, as the stitch is so thick and elastic. 
The short straps may be knitted if desired, but it is better to have 
them made of leather. 


Wide Lace.—Crocheted. 



Make a cbajp of 43 sfcitobes, 



22 


1st row.—4 tr. in the seventh chain, 2 ch., 1 tr. in the third ch., 
(i. e., the third from the one you fastened in before,) 5 ch., 1 
sc. in fifth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. in fifth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. in fifth 
ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. in fifth ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. in fifth ch., 5 ch., 1 
sc. in fifth ch., 4 cli., 1 sc. in fourth ch. Turn the work at 
the end of each row. 

2d row.—2 ch., 9 long tr. under the four ch. of the preceding row, 
10 ch., 1 sc. on the second ( i . e>> the next but one) sc. of 
preceding row, 10 ch., 1 sc. on sec 0 nd sc.,10 cli., 1 sc. on first tr., 
(not the first one worked, but the first one you come to in 
this row,) 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. in third chain. 

3d row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch.» 1 tr. on first se., 5 ch., 

1 sc. on the centre of the ten ch. 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc, 

5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 S c. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on 
10 cli., 5 ch.. 1 sc. on the first of the nine ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc. 
on the chain between the third and fourth ltr,, 4 ch., 1 sc. 
on the ch. between sixth and seventh ltr. 

4th row.—2 ch., 9 ltr. under the four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc., 
10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third 
ch. 

5th row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 

5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc., on 
10 ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first ltr., 4 ch.,lsc. on third ltr., 4 ch., 1 
sc. on sixth ltr. 

6th row.—2 ch., 91tr. underfour ch., 10ch., 1 sc. on second sc. 10 ch., 1 
sc. on second sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 10 cli., 1 sc. on 
first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 

7th row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 

5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on 
next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first ltr., 4 ch., 

1 sc. on third ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 

8tli row.—2 ch., 9 ltr. under the four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc., 
10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc , 10 cli., 1 
sc. in second sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second 
tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 

9th row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 cli., 1 
sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc , 
5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch , 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on 
ten ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc on ten cli., 5 cli., 

1 sc. on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc on third ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc. on sixth 
ltr. 

10th row.—2 ch., 9 ltr. under four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc., 10 
ch, 1 sc. in second sc., 7 ltr. in next sc., 1 sc. in next sc., 10 
cli., 1 sc. in second sc., 10 cli., 1 sc. on first tr.., 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 

11th row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 
5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on fourth ltr., 5 ch., 1 sc. 
on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 
ch., 1 sc. on tench., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc. on 
third ltr., 4 ch., 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 


l‘2th faw.—2 ch., 9 Itr. under four ch., 10 ch., 1 sc. in second sc., 10 
cli., 1 sc. in second sc., 9 ltr. in next sc., 1 sc. in next sc , 9 
ltr. in next sc., 1 sc. in next sc., 10 ch., t sc. on second sc., 5 
ch., 1 sc. on first ti\, 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
third ch. 

13th row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch, 5 ch., I sc. on next sc., 
5 ch., 1 sc. on fourth ltr., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. 
on fourth ltr., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 
ch., I sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on 
on first ltr., 4 ch. 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 

14th row.—2 ch., 8 ltr., 1 sc. on first sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc. 
(the next but one), 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 7 ltr. on next 
sc., 1 sc. on next sc., 10 cli., 1 sc. on second sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. 
on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 

15tli row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on ten ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten 
ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on fourth ltr., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 
5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch , 1 sc. on next sc., 4 ch., 1 sc. on 
sixth ltr. 

16th row.—2 ch., 8 ltr., l*sc. on first sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 
10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 10 ch., 
1 sc. on second sc., 5 cli., 1 sc. on first tr., 2 ch , 1 tr. on 
second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 

17th row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr. ,2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc., 5ch., 1 
sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 
5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch , 1 sc. on 

ten cli., 5 ch.,1 sc. on next sc.j 5 cli., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 

sc on first ltr., 4 cli., 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 

18th row.—2 ch., 8 ltr, 1 sc. on first sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second 
sc. 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc. 10 
ch., 1 sc. on first tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on 
third ch. 

19th row. —4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 cli., 1 tr. on first sc., 5 cli., 
1 sc. on 10 ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on 10 ch., 
5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten cli., 5 ch., 1 sc. on 

next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first ltr., 4 cli., 

1 sc. on sixth ltr. 

20th row.—2 ch., 8 ltr., 1 sc. on first sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 
10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 10 ch., 1 sc. on second sc., 5 ch., 1 
sc. on 1st tr., 2 ch. 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. 

21st row.—4 ch., 1 tr. on second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on first sc , 5 cli., 1 
sc. on next sc., 5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 
5 ch., 1 sc. on ten ch., 5 cli., 1 sc. on next sc., 5 cli., 1 sc. on 

ten ch., 5 ch., 1 sc. on first ltr., 4 cli., 1 sc. on sixth ltr. 

22d row.—2 cli., 8 ltr., 1 sc. on first sc , 10 ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 10 

ch., 1 sc. on next sc., 10 ch.* 1 sc. on first tr., 2 cli., 1 tr. on 

second tr., 2 ch., 1 tr. on third ch. Begin again at third row. 

This gives one point and the first row of the second point. 

Although a very elaborate lace, and somewhat tedious in making. 

it will well repay the time spent. Worked in black, it makes a very 

handsome trimming for black silk dresses. Care must taken always 

to insert the hook under the two upper threads of the preceding 


u 


ditch, l'n order to make the joinings look solid, tfse a Very tins 
liook. £ ounce knitting silk will make a yard and eight inches of 
this pattern. 

Baby’s Socks, Knitted. 

Materials: 4 oz< 
knitting silk, and four 
No. 15 knitting needles 
Cast on 65 stitches, on 
one needle, and knit 
backwards and for¬ 
wards, plain, twice 
each way, making 
four rows in all. 

5th. row.— K. 1, over, * 
k. 5, si. 1, k. 2 to, 
puss slipped stitch 
over, k. 5, over, k 1, 
over, repeat from *. 
6th. row.—Purled. 

Repeat these two 
rows three times more, 
making in all, four rows 
of holes. Knit plain, 
again, twice each way, 
making a ribbed band 
as in the beginning. 
Repeat from the fifth 
row until you have two divisions of four holes each, and three 
ribbed bands, including the one at the beginning. In the last row 
of the last band, narrow once at each end of the needle, so as to 
leave but 63 stitches. 

This completes the leg. Take off from each end, on the two 
needles which have not, hitherto, been used, 21 stitches, leavin" 21 
in the middle, for the top of the foot. Knit only these, disregarding 
the side needles for the present. 

1st foot row.—K. 2, * over, k. 1, over, k. 2, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass 
slipped stitch over, lc. 2, repeat from *. 

This continues the pattern in the proper place, but gives two 
extra stitches on the needle, which must be narrowed off by knit¬ 
ting two together at each end of the needle in purlins back. 
Continue the pattern until you have three divisions of four holes 
each, and two ribbed bands. Now take up with the side needles 14 
stitches along the sides of the foot-piece just knitted, making 35 
stitches on each side needle, and 21 on the middle needle. Knit 
backwaids and foiwards on these three needles, alternating plain 
and purled rows in such a way as to make three rows plain on the 
right side, then three rows purled on the right side. Knit 15 rows 
(three plain bands and two purled ones), After this, narrow in every 
alternate row, at each end of each side needle, and on each side of 
the middle stitch on the middle needle. Continue until you have 
in all five plain bands, and five purled ones. Bind off and sew un 
the sock. A narrow ribbon, or a cord and balls of the silk may be 
nm m the holes at the ankle if desired. 












Belding Bros. & Co, 

u l-C * i " P i ? • ^ 

I y^enSmqtow (Dmvtowetij f 

PURE SILK,. 

WOUND ON PATENT CARDS. 



Ertroiiery never 



ONLY THE SILK ACTUALLY USED IN THE 
WORK IS TAKEN OFF, THE REST OF 
THE SILK REMAINS NEATLY 
WOUND ON THE CARD. 


AH Workers in Embroidery appreciate the 
convenience of the patent cards. 

Beldin^V “ Kei^irigtoq ” l^nqbToideTy 


HA.© 3iTQ EQXJ.A.Xj, 





Broad Silks. 


Welding '3ros. &j jCo., 


MANUFACTURERS OF 


Gros Grains , 
Satins, 


Serges , 


Surahs, 


Moscovites , 
Ottomans , 


Sleeve Linings , <fr£. 



H 


ding’s Silk Hosiery, 


Quality; Permanent Lustre; Unequalled for Wear. 


GUARANTEED SUPERIOR TO ANY OTHER 

IN THIS COUNTRY. 





















- v>4#u - 


•n T his is an ol(1 . sti ^ cIl « a very pretty one, and the little socks 
will be found particularly dainty and well shaped. A very loose 
knitter may use No. 16 needles, but a very tight knitter should take 
No. 14, as the beauty of the stitch depends on its being loosely done. 

Old Lady’s Hood.—Knitted. 



Material: 21 oz. knitting silk; two No. 10 bone needles. 

Cast on 179 stitches and knit across plain. 

1st row.—K. 2,* 4 times k. 2 to., 7 times throw silk twice over the 
needle, and k. 1, throw silk twice over needle, 4 times slip 
and bind, throw silk twice over needle, slip and bind. Re¬ 
peat from * to the end of the row, ending with k. 2. 

2nd row.—Plain, considering the “twice over” of the preceding 
row as one stitch. 

3rd row.—K. 2, *, k. 23, twice over, slip and bind. Repeat from *, 
ending with k. 2. 

4th row.—Plain. Repeat from first row. 

Knit 48 rows in all and bind ofl’. This gives a short, wide scarf, 

pointed at both ends. 






26 


Turn up the points on one end, about two inches, on the 
right side, fastening them by a stitch in each point, and run a rib¬ 
bon through the hem thus formed. Plait the othe r end closely, lay¬ 
ing the points on each other, and fasten with a bow. 

Although this is called an “old lady’s” hood, if knit of some 
bright color, it makes a very pretty and coquettish head covering for 
a young girl. Knit of a dark color, and with the bow replaced by a 
flat fastening, and a thin lining added, it makes a very warm and 
comfortable cap for grandma to wear under her h it, in cold weather. 

Crocheted Edge. 

Make a chain the required length, and work on it a row of shells, 

4 treble in each shell and 1 chain between, missing 1 chain of the 
foundation between each shell. The second row is the same, putting 
each shell directly over the shell in the preceding row. This may 
all be done in white silk. Now take colored silk, make a shell on 
the first shell of the preceding row, 2 chain, l sc. on the chain be¬ 
tween the first and second shells in the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 sc. 
on the chain between the first and second shells in the first row, 3 
chain, 1 sc. on the chain of the foundation which was missed between 
the first and second shells, 3 chain, 1 sc. on the chain between the 
first and second shells in the first row, 3 chain, 1 sc. on the chain 
between the first and second shells in the second row, 2 chain, 1 shell 
or the second shell in the second row, etc. This edge is shown in 
the Checkered Holder. (See next illustration.) £ oz. of each color will 
make about 41- yards, using rather a coarse hook. The writer once 
saw a baby’s cashmere sack with this edge crocheted around it, 
omitting the foundation chain and putting the needle right through 
the cashmere. The effect was very pretty. 

Checkered Holder. 

Materials for four: oz- 
white, | oz. red knitting silk, 
four No. 15 knitting needles. 

Cast on with the red 
silk, 102 stitches, knit back 
and forth, in common garter 
stitch, 10 times each way, or 
twenty rows in all. 

21st row.—Knit 16, join 
on the white, without cutting 
off the red, knit 10 white, then 
purl 10 with red, drawing the 
silk across at the back as tightly as possible, so as to draw the white 
stitches all in a bunch on the needle, 10 with white again, draw¬ 
ing the silk tight as before. Repeat until you have four groups 
of white and three of red stitches. Finish the remaining 16 in red, 
knit plain. These 16 stitches at each ernLof the needle are fora 
border, and must always be knit plain each way. 

22d row.-^Atter knitting the 16 plain, purl the white ones 
with white, and knit the red ones with red. These two rows form 
the pattern After every ten rows, the colors must bo alternated, 





27 


so as to bring red blocks above white ones, and white blocks above 
red ones. Keep the crossing threads carefully on the wrong side, 
and always draw them as tightly as possible across the intervening 
spaces. The effect of this is to draw the blocks into little puffs, 
or ffutings, and make the holder, when completed, double itself 
naturally, instead of lying flat. The wrong-side-out effect produced 
by purling the red blocks over the white, may be avoided by knit¬ 
ting the first row plain, each time the colors are alternated. Seven 
blocks each way complete the square, after which there must be 
twenty rows of red, as in the beginning. Bind off, and finish with 
any pretty edge. The one shown in the illustration is described on 
a preceding page. 

This is a very saleable little article at fairs, and is so quickly and 
easily made as to be a real boon to ladies who are frequently called 
upon to furnish “something pretty for the fancy table.” A silk 
holder may be a novelty, but some of its advantages will be readily 
apparent. Not a small one is that as silk is a non-conductor of heat 
the protection afforded the hand is perfect. The gleam of the silk 
will be appropriate with a silver tea-service. A lining of thin silk 
is a desirable addition. 

Puffed Wristlets.—-Crocheted. 

Materials: \ oz. Belding’s knitting silk, and coarse crochet hook. 

Make a chain of 73 stitches and join in a round. Then, wrrking 
one stitch on each stitch of the foundation, make* 1 dc., 1 stc., 1 tc , 
1 ltc., 1 tc., 1 stc. 1 dc., 1 sc. Repeat to the end of the round. Each 
round is the same, taking care always to keep each stitch directly 
above the same kind of stitch in the preceding round. Thus, every 
sc. stitch will be made on a sc., every dc. on a dc., etc., forming a 
series of puffs. Continue until the wristlet is of the desired length. 
About twenty-four rows will make a medium size. As the pattern is 
in eight stitches, the number of stitches in the chain must always be 
divisible by eight, with one over for joining. 


Crocheted Edge. 

Make a chain of the required length. 

1st row.—1 treble, 1 ch., 1 treble, missing 1 ch. of the foundation. 
Repeat. You now have a row of treble stitches looking like 
little posts. 

2nd row.—Beginning on the top of the first post, make 7 ch., 1 dc. 
on the top of the third post ; repeat, fastening to every alter¬ 
nate post. 

3rd row.—* 4 treble in the middle stitch of each 7 ch. in the pre¬ 
ceding row. 

4tli row.—Always 7 ch. fastened by 1 dc. between each shell of the 
preceding row. 

This edge is shown in the Baby’s Hood. (See illustration.) It 
can be made of any desired width by repeating the third and fourth 
rows. ^ oz. silk will make two yards and 9 inches of this width. 
Use a very fine hook. 


28 


Fascinator.—Knitted. 














29 


Materials: 2£ oz. light 
old gold knitting silk, 2Joz. 
dark scarlet knitting silk, 
and two No. 9 bone needles. 

Cast on 20(J stitches, 
using a thread of each color. 
The two spools may be used 
at once, but a more conve¬ 
nient way is to wind the two 
spools off on one before be¬ 
ginning to knit. Knit back 
and forth plain, but always 
putting the thread twico in¬ 
stead of once around the nee¬ 
dle. Knit eleven times each 
way, or twenty-two rows in 
all. Slip half the stitches off 
on a spare needle, and knit 
back and forth on the re¬ 
maining half, thirty-six 
times each way. Bind off as 
tightly as possible. Knit up the stitches from the spare needle 
in the same way. 

You now have a very broad, but short piece, which is to form the 
head, and two long strings. Crochet across the front of the head 
piece (still using both colors at once), a border of treble crochet 
stitches separated by one chain. Between the alternate trebles 
crochet a shell of live long trebles, fastened by one double crochet 
in the intervening spaces. 

Now, crochet all around, except across the ends of the strings, 
a border composed of ten chain, one single crochet on every alter¬ 
nate row of the knitting along the sides, and on the centre of each 
shell in front. In the second row, always ten chain, one double 
crochet on the ten chain of the preceding round. Bun a thread of 
the silk across the front of the head piece, just back of the crocheted 
border, and draw it up, as on a shirring. Fasten by a bow of scarlet 
and gold ribbon. Draw the ends of the strings up tight, and finish 
with a tassel of the silk. A bit of scarlet or gold lining silk basted 
under the head piece after it is drawn up will be a convenience, as 
it prevents the hair being caught in the silk. This is a particular¬ 
ly elegant fascinator, and always sets well, however the hair is 
dressed. 



Moss Edge.—Knitted, 


Materials: Scraps of embroidery or knitting silk, some fine 
twine or crochet cotton, and two No. 18 knitting needles. 

Cast on with the cotton 11 stitches, more or less according to the 
width of the edge desired, but always an odd number, and 
knit across once plain. 


2d row.—Knit one, wind four threads of silk twice around the fore¬ 
finger of the left hand, insert the right hand needle m the 
next stitch and also in the silk, as though it were a stitch on 
the needle, knitting both together, and slipping the silk oft 
the finger as the stitch is slipped off the needle. Eepeat to 

the end. . 

3d row.—Plain. Eepeat these two rows until the edge is the 
desired length. Then with sharp scissors clip all the silk 
loops, so as to form an open fringe 
This edge improves with age, as the silk untwists, and forms a 
thick, velvety surface, entirely concealing the cotton foundation. 
It will be found very pretty for the edge of a lamp-mat, for instance, 
and is a nice way of using up the odds and ends of silk that accum¬ 
ulate so rapidly. The colors may be put in “hit or miss,’ or 
arranged to form a pattern. 


Miseb’s Purse.—Crocheted. 

Materials: \ oz. knitting 
silk, 1 bunch cut steel beads, 
and a fine crochet hook. 

This pretty purse is 
sometimes made in one 
piece, but is then exceed¬ 
ingly troublesome to work. 

We therefore give directions 
for making it in tvo parts to 
be sewed together. The 
effect is the same and the 
work much easier 

Make a chain of 212 
stitches, and work on it a 
row of trebles, always sepa¬ 
rated by one chain, and miss¬ 
ing one chain of the foun¬ 
dation. Make 4G trebles, 120 
chain, and cut off' the silk. 

Eepeat until you have 11 rows 
of the trebles, each row ending with 120 chain. Fold the strip 
thus made together, letting the end with the chains come 6 tre¬ 
bles, or about an inch, from the other end, which is to make tho v 
flap. Crochet the long edges together with a row of single crochet, 
and put a row of trebles across the double end, and also across 
the end of the flap Put the chains through the back of the bag 
thus made, one chain between every row of trebles, except in 
the middle, where there will be two chains. Now make another 
bag precisely the same, except that the chains are omitted. Pass 
the chains from the first bag through the back of the second bag 
and sew them neatly to the front. The illustration shows the 
appearance when complete. Put a bead fringe across the ends of 
the bags, and a purse ring to confine the chains. These purses are 
very handsome in black silk, with black and gold or black and steel 
beads. 1 oz. of silk will make three purses. 
















31 


t 


Baby’s Sack.—Knitted. 



Materials : 1 oz. pink or bine knitting silk, 2 oz. cream-wliite 
knitting silk, and two No. 14 steel needles. 

Cast on 281 stitches with the pink silk and knit 4 rows plain. 
(Twice each way.) These four rows constitute a “ rib,” which 
is repeated after every division of the pattern. 

5th row.—K. 1, over, k. 5, si. 1, k 2 to., pass slipped over, k. 5, 
over, repeat from beginning to end of row, ending with over, 
k. 1. It is prettiest to throw the silk over twice at each 
“over” throughout the sack, as it makes a larger “hole.” 

6th row.—Purled. 

Repeat these two rows four times more, making in all five rows 
of holes. This is one “division” of the pattern. Make another 
rib, then a division of four rows of holes, followed by a third rib. 
Join on the white silk. 

1st row with white.—K. 1, over, k. 3, k. 2 to, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass 
slipped over, k. 2 to, k, 3, over, repeat. 

This narrows on each side of every point. 

2d row.—Purled. 

3rd row—K. 1, over, k. 4, si. k. 2 to, pass slipped over, k 4, over, 
repeat. 

Continue in this way, purling back, and knitting 4 plain stitches 
on each side of the point until you have a division of four rows of 










32 


holes. Make another rib. Join on the pink again, and knit four 
rows of holes and a rib, then four rows of holes with the white fol¬ 
lowed by a pink rib. Join on the white. 

1st. white row after the pink rib.—K. 1, over, k. 2, k. 2 to, si. 1, k. 2 
to pass slipped over, k. 2 to, over, repeat. 

2nd row.—Purled. 

3rd row.—K. 1, over, k. 3, si. 1, k.-2 to, pass slipped over, k. 3, over, 
repeat. 

Continue as before, knitting 3 plain stitches on each side of the 
point until you have two divisions, three rows of holes in each, and 
the ribs. After completing the last rib, take off on a spare needle 
55 stitches (5J points), from the end of the needle. These are to be 
knit up for one front. Disregard the rest of the stitches for the 
time, and knit backwards and forwards on these. Watch the pattern 
rows to keep the work from widening in the armhole. Where there 
is one more “ over” stitch than is provided for by the point, it must 
be narrowed off in the armhole. A slight examination of the pattern 
will make this clear. 

Make four divisions of three rows of holes each, and the ribs. 
The last rib begins the shoulder, and the work must now be nar¬ 
rowed once on the shoulder edge in every alternate row, until the 
end. This narrowing is in addition to that required by the pattern, 
and must be continued through the ribs, so as to give a uniform 
slope. 

For the shoulder make the rib which begins it, two divisions of 
three rows of holes, a rib between and following them, a division of 
two rows of holes and half a rib. Then in the third row of the rib 
knit always 1 plain, over, k. 2 to., repeat to the end of row. 
Knit back plain and bind off. The other front and the back are 
knit up in the same way, remembering in the back to narrow on each 
shoulder. 

For the collar, cast on 161 stitches with the pink silk and knit a 

rib. 

1st division row.—K. 1, over, k. 3, si. 1, k 2 to., pass slipped over, 
k. 3, over. Repeat. Make a division of three rows of holes. 
Join on the white and make the rib. In the first pattern row 
narrow on each side of every point as in the body. Make a 
division of 3 rows of holes, then a rib with a row of holes 
all along, as in the neck of the body; bind off. After sewing 
up the shoulders, lay the collar on the body and run a cord 
or narrow ribbon through the two rows of holes. 

For the sleeves, cast on with the pink 85 stitches and make a rib. 
The first division is like the first in the body—five plain stitches on 
each side of the point. Make a division of five rows of holes and a 
rib, join on the white, make a similar division and rib, join on the 
pink and in the first row narrow on each side of every point. Make 
four rows of holes, join on the white, make the rib, two, or for a 
long sleeve, three divisions of three rows of holes each, end with a 
rib and bind off. This makes a very elastic sack which will not be 
outgrown in a long time, and is durable enough to serve two or three 
successive babies. 


ESTABLISHED REPUTATION 



SEWING SILKS 

-AND- 

Machine Twist 

ARE AHEAD OF ALL COMPETITORS: 

Have been awarded the Highest Premiums at all 

Industria l Exhibitions . 

The following are noteworthy among the numerous 

Testimonials won by 

BELDING’S SILKS. 

PRIZE MEDALS OF MERIT AT 

Cincinnati Industrial Expositions, 1870 and 1872. 

St. Louis Industrial Expositions, 1872, 1874, 1875. 

Baltimore, Maryland Institute, 1874. 

Philadelphia, 1874, and Centennial, 1876. 

The only GOLD MEDALS ever awarded for goods of this class were to 

Belding Bros. <S>° Co ., at 

Sydney, N. S. W., 1878. 

Atlanta, Ga., Exposition, 1881. 

San Francisco, Mechanics’ Institute, 1883. 

San Francisco, California State Fair, 1883. 






All the articles described in this book 
have been made according to 
the directions, and of 


BELD1NGS PURE THREAD K HITTING 


SILK. 


Their beauty and wearing qualities 
when so made, are guaranteed. 


But if the “Knitting Silk” of other 
manufacturers is used, the articles 
made will soon be dull and 
lustreless, and scarcely 
worth giving away. 















33 


Rose Tidy.—Crocheted. 



Begin the roses in the centre. Make a chain of 6 stitches 

Join in a ring. 

1st round.—1 tr. separated by 3 ch. on each of the six stitches of the 
foundation. 

2d round.—1 dc., 3 tr., 1 dc. in each of the spaces between the 
trebles in the preceding round. 

3d. round.—1 dc. separated by 6 ch. between each scallop of pre¬ 
ceding round. 

4th round.—1 dc., 5 tr., 1 dc. under each six chain. 

5th round.—1 dc. separated by 8 ch. between each scallop. 

6th round.—1 dc., 7 tr., 1 dc. under each eight chain. 

7th round.—1 dc. separated by 10 ch. between each scallop. 

8th round.—1 dc., 9 tr., 1 dc. under each ten chain. 

9tli round.—1 dc. separated by 12 ch. between each scallop. 

10th round.—1 dc., 11 tr., 1 dc. under each twelve chain. Care 
must be taken, up to this point, not to make the chain stitches 
loose, or the rose will lie flaf. 




















34 


11th round.—1 tr., 14 rather loose eh., repeat. These trebles must 
be put in the back of the scallops, at slightly irregular dis¬ 
tances, so as to make seven trebles in the round instead of six 
as heretofore. 

12th round.—1 dc., 13 tr., 1 dc. under every fourteen chain. 

13th round.—1 sc. separated by 3 ch. on every third chain of the 
edge. 

14th round.—1 tr., 1 ch , repeat. These trebles must be fastened in 
the top of the last scallop, behind every sc. of the thirteenth 
round. 

15th round.—1 tr., separated by 2 ch., between every tr. of preced¬ 
ing round. 

16 th round.—1 tr., separated by 3 ch., between every tr. of preced¬ 
ing round. 

This completes the rows. After a sufficient number have been 
made, they are joined by a row of chain stitches, with one row of 
trebles in groups of threes, thereon. The illustration shows the 
manner of joining more clearly than it can be described. The long 
loops in the corners of the squares are simply 10 ch. from the join¬ 
ing, 1 sc. in the rose, 10 ch. back to the joining. Any pretty cro¬ 
cheted edge may be added for a finish. This would make a very 
handsome top for a cushion, and can be made larger by adding roses. 
Eight roses in length and three in width makes a large tidy. A 
pretty way is to make the roses, from the first to the fourteenth 
rounds, of red or pink silk; the remaining three rounds, and the 
joinings, of green silk. The shades must be delicate and carefully 
chosen, however, or the effect will be tawdry. The quantity of silk 
used depends, of course, on the size of the article. y z oz. of silk 
will make five roses. 


Insertion.—Knitted. 

Cast on 19 stitches. 

1st row.—Plain. 

2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th rows.—Plain. 

3rd row.—K. 2, over, n., over, k. 1, over, si. 1, k. 3 together, pass 
slipped over, over, k. 1, over, si. 1, k. 3 together, pass slipped 
over, over, k. 1, over, n., over, k. 2. 

5th row.—K. 2, over, n., over, k. 3, over, si. 1, k. 4 together, pass 
slipped over, over, k. 3, over, n., over, k 2. 

7th row.—K. 2, over, n., over, k. 1, si. 1, k. 2 together, pass slipped 
over, k. 1, over, k. 1, over, k. 1, si. 1, k. 2 together, pass slip¬ 
ped over, k. 1, over, n., over, k. 2. After the eighth row, re¬ 
peat from first. This makes a pretty, broken pattern. By 
omitting the first and second rows, and purling the alternate 
rows, what is called “wheat ear” is produced, y oz. of silk 
will make a little over a yard of this insertion. 






35 


Baby’s Cap. —Knitted. 

Materials: 1 oz. knitting silk, 
and eight No. 17 needles. 

Cast on 7 stitches on three 
needles (2 on two needles, three 
on the third.) 

1st round.—Over, k. 1, repeat to 
the end of the round. 

2d round.—Plain. 

3d round.—Over, k. 2. Repeat. 

4th round.—Plain 
5th round.—Over, k. 3. Repeat. 

6th round.—Plain. 

Continue in this way until 
there are 12 stitches between each 
overstitch. Make every alternate 
row plain, and the last row plain. 

This gives 24 rounds. 

25th round.—* Over, k. 1, over, k. 

1, over, k. 2 to, over, k. 2 to, over, k. 2 to, over, si. 1, k. 2 to, 
pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 

26th and every alternate round, plain. 

27th round.—Over, k. 3, over, k. 2, over, k. 2 to, over, k. 2to, over, 
k. 2 to, over, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass slipped stitch over. 

29th round—Over, k. 5, over, k. 1, over, k. 2 to, over, k. 2 to, over, 
k. 2 to, over, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass slipped stitch over. 

31st round.—Over, k. 7, over, k. 2, over, k. 2 to, over, k. 2 to, over, 
si. 1, k. 2 to, pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 

33d round.—Over, k. 9, over, k. 1, over, k. 2 to, over, k. 2 to, over, 
si. 1, k. 2 to, pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 

35th round.—Over, k. 11, over, k. 2, over k. 2 to., over, si. 1, k. 2 to, 
pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 

37tb. round.—Over, k. 13, over, k. 1, over, k. 2 to, over, si. 1, k. 2 to, 
pass slipped stitch over. Repeat. 

39th round.—Over, k. 15, over, k. 2, over, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass slipped 
stitch over. Repeat. 

41st round.—Over, k. 17, over, k. 1, over, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass slipped 
stitch over. Repeat. 

43d round.—Over, k. 19, over, si. 1, k. 2 to, pass slipped stitch over. 
Repeat. 

45th round.—Over, k. 21. Repeat. 

47th round —Over, si. and b., k. 1. Repeat. 

49th and 50th rounds.—Purled. 

51st round.—Plain. 

This completes the crown. The pattern being a star with 
seven points, it will be found most convenient, after the 24th row, 
to use double the usual number of needles, one for each point, and 
one to knit with, thus keeping the work flat. Having completed 
the crown, reserve 105 stitches, distributing them on four or five 
needles, as is most convenient, and bind off the rest. These 105 
stitches are for the front, and are to be knit back and forth, like a 
straight piece. 


















36 

1st row.—P. 2, orer, k. 2, si. 1, k. 1, pass slipped stitch, ever, k, 1. 
Repeat. 

2d row.—K. 5, p. 2. Repeat. 

These two rows form the pattern, and each is to to knitted 
twelve times, making twenty-four rows in all. 

25th and 26th rows.—Plain. 

27th row.—Over, si. and b., k. 1. Repeat. 

28th, 29th and 30th rows.—Plain. Bind off' and finish all round 
with any pretty knitted or crocheted edge. The one shown 
in the illustration is described on a previous page. 

Run a ribbon in the row of holes around the crown, finishing 
with a bow on top of the head, and another one in the row of holes 
across the front, leaving ends to tie under the chin. 

Fringe.—Crocheted. 



It is often desirable to make a pretty fringe which can be sewed 
on to the article it is desired to ornament, instead of working it on 
in the usual manner. This pattern not only serves such a purpose, 
but is a change from the ordinary tied-in fringe. 

Make a chain the required length, and work one row of double 
crochet, one stitch in each stitch of the foundation chain. Turu and 
work as follows: (The fringe should previously be cut in lengths 
twice as long as it is desired to make the fringe and laid in bunches, 
five threads in a bunch). *Put the hook under the upper vein of 
the first dc. stitch in the preceding row, lay the centre of a bunch 


























































37 


across the hook, take up the silk with which you are working and 
draw all through together, making two stitches and the bunch on 
the needle. Take up the silk again and draw through all at once, 
as in ordinary dc. Make one dc. on the next stitch of the preced¬ 
ing row. Repeat from.* For the heading, make one dc. in the first 
stitch of the preceding row, * 3 treble in the next stitch, 1 dc. in the 
next, 1 cli., 1 dc. in the next but one, repeat from *. The hook 
used should be rather coarse. The quantity of silk required varies 
of course with the depth of the fringe: £ oz. will make nearly a 
yard of fringe three inches deep, including the heading, and as a 
trimming for dresses it is very handsome and inexpensive. 


Long Purse.—Knitted. 


Materials: A oz. knitting silk, 
and four No. 17 needles. 

Cast on 40 stitches. The 
most convenient way to distri¬ 
bute them is to put 14 on the 
first needle, 12 on the second, 
and 14 on the third. Knit once 
around plain. 

1st round.—P. 10, tw. 2, p. 2, tw. 

2, p. 2, tw. 2. Repeat._. 

2d round.—Like first. 

3d round.—K. 10, tw. 2, p. 2, tw. 

2, p. 2, tw. 2. Repeat. 

4th round.—Like third. 

5th and 6th rounds.—Like first. 
7th and 8th rounds.—Like third. 
9th and 10th rounds.—Like first. 
11th and 12th rounds. —Like third. 
13th and 14th rounds.—Tw. 2, p. 
2, tw. 2, p. 2, tw. 2, p. 10. Re¬ 
peat. 

15th and 16th rounds.—Tw. 2, p. 
2. tw. 2, p. 2, tw. 2, k. 10. Re¬ 
peat. 

17th and 18th rounds.—Like thir¬ 
teenth. 

19th and 20th rounds.—Like four¬ 



teenth. 

2lst and 22d rounds.—Like thirteenth. 

23d and 24th rounds.— Like fourteenth. 

Repeat these twenty-four rounds twice more making seventy- 
two rounds in all, then knit once around plain. In the next round 
knit the first two stitches plain, then always over, knit two togetner, 
to the end, knitting the last two plain. Instead of going on around 
purl back over the three needles. Knit back and forth m this w y 
until you have a piece about two inches and a half long. e 
instead of purling back, knit all the way around once more plain 
Resume the pattern and knit it three times. Bind oft, draw the 
ends together and finish with a bead tassel. This purse looks very 























/ 


38 

small before using, but the stitch is so extremely elastic that it 
will be found quite large enough for practical purposes. Happy is 
she who can fill it. 

For a non elastic pattern, knit with four needles, from fifty to 
sixty stitches should be cast on, and the purse should measure ten 
or twelve inches in length, An easier way is to cast on from one 
hundred to one hundred and fifty stitches, and knit a flat piece 
about nine inches long. Bind off’ and sew it up, leaving a slit in 
the middle. One color of silk may be used throughout, or it may 
be knit in stripes of different colors. Black, with narrow stripes of 
gold, is very pretty. 


Narrow Lace.—Knitted. 


Cast on 9 stitches. 

1st row.—SI. 1, k. 2, over, n., k. 3, over, k. 1. 

2d, 4th and 6th rows.—Purled. 

3d row.—SI. 1, k 3, over, n., k. 3, over, k. 1. 

5th row.—SI. 1, k. 4, over, n., k. 3, over, k. 1. 

7th row.—Plain 

8th row.—Bind off'3, purl the rest. 

9th row.—Like first. 

10th and 12th rows.—Purled. 

11th row.—SI. 1, k. 3, over, n., k. 4 . 

13th row.—SI. 1, k. 4, over, n., k. 2, over, k. 1. 

14th row.—SI. 1, p. 1 and k. 1 in the “ over” stitch, p. the rest. 
15th row.—Like seventh. 

16th row.—Like eighth. Repeat from first row. 

Half oz. knitting silk will make about 3 yards of this lace. 


How to Wash Silk Knit Articles. 


Wash in cool, soft water, use pure white castile, ox gall, or fine 
toilet soap, and use no more than necessary, rub as little as pos¬ 
sible, press the water out by placing in a clean, dry cloth; do not 
wring, but squeeze them. Wash each article separately. Rinse 
once in clear cold water, again in cold water which has been tinc¬ 
tured with some mild acid, cream of tartar, tartaric acid, alum or 
vinegar will do. Dry quickly. When nearly dry rub with a piece 
of soft dry flannel, always the same way. If desired to press the 
article lay in or under a heavy book. Do not press hot, as it gives 
the article a starched appearance. Use no acid for black, but add 
a little liquid ammonia to the washing water. Use no ammonia for 
colors. 

Separate directions are given for washing embroidery silks, 
under the heading “ Embroidery.” 



39 


Crocheted Insertion, 



Make a chain the required length. 

1st row.—1 tr. separated by 1 ch. on each alternate stitch of foun¬ 
dation. 

2d row.—3 tr. separated by 1 ch. between each, on the first three tr. 
of preceding row, 2 ch., 1 tr. between the next two tr. of preced¬ 
ing row, 2 ch. Repeat. 

3d row.—2 tr. separated by 1 ch. between the three tr. of preceding 
row, 2 ch , 3 tr. over the one tr. of preceding row, (1 directly 
over it, and 1 on each side of it,) 2 ch. Repeat. 

4th row.—1 tr. between the two tr. of preceding row, 2 ch., 5 tr. 
over the three tr., 2 ch. Repeat. 

5th row.— 3 tr. over the first two of the five tr. in preceding row, 1 
ch., 3 tr. over the last two of t e five, 3 ch. Repeat. 

6th row.—3 tr. over the first two tr. of the first group of three in 
the preceding row, 3 ch., 3 tr. over the last two of the last 
group of three in the preceding row, 1 ch. Repeat. 

7th row.—1 tr. on the middle one of the three ch. in preceding row, 
2 ch., 5 tr. over the two groups of threes in preceding row, 2 
ch. Repeat. 






















40 


8th row.—2 tr. separated by 1 ch. over the one tr. in preceding row, 
2 ch., 3 tr. over the five tr., 2 ch. Repeat. 

9th row.—3 tr. separated by 1 ch. over the two tr. of preceding row, 
2 ch., 1 tr. over the three tr., 2 ch. Repeat. 

10th row.—Always 1 tr. separated by 1 ch. 

The illustration shows the position of the stitches more clearly 
than any description can do. If desired, a pretty edge to sew the 
insertion by can be made by working 1 tr. separated by 3 ch. on 
each alternate tr. of the edge of the insertion. _ . 

Half oz silk will make a yard and about 9 inches of this inser¬ 
tion. Use a fine hook. 

Baby’s Mitten in Moss Stitch.—Knitted. 

Materials: £ oz. knitting silk, 
an l two No. 1? needles. 

Cast on 54 stitches. Knit back 
and forth plain, (garter stitch,) 
widening at the beginning of the 
needle each alternate time across. 
This keeps all the widenings on 
the same edge. Continue until 
there are sixty-four stitches on 
the needle, then knit plain four 
times each way, or eight rows in 
all. Now narrow on the same edge 
until there are but fifty-four stitches 
again. Knit plain once each way. 
This completes one-half the mit¬ 
ten. 

Begin widening again, and knit 
the other half in the same way, but 
in moss stitch. (One plain, one 
purled alternately, and in the sec¬ 
ond row purl the purled stitches 
and knit the plain ones, so as to re¬ 
verse the order on the right side, 
thus giving a dotted appearance.) 
It is also a good plan, in each half 
of the mitten, to make a hole (over, 
narrow,) in every fourth row, two 
and also twenty-one stitches from 
the same. Having completed the two halves, bind off and sew up, 
leaving an opening for the thumb. 

To make the thumb, cast on s eleven stitches; knit one row plain, 
then widen on both ends of the needle in every alternate round until 
you have seventeen stitches. Knit twice each way, omitting the 
widening at the beginning of the needle, but continuing it at the 
end. Then narrow at the beginning of the needle and widen at the 
end, repeating until you have narrowed three times. Knit once 
plain each way. This forms half of the thumb. Now widen at the 
beginning of the needle and narrow at the end. Repeat until you 



















Don’t make a Mistake 

By Buying some other Silk than that of 

BELDING BROS. & CO. 


-- > »- 

All the articles described in this book 
have been made according to 
the directions, and of 



SILK. 


Their beauty and wearing qualities 
when so made, are guaranteed. 

But if the “ Knitting Silk ” of other 
manufacturers is used, the articles 
made will soon be dull and 
lustreless, and scarcely 
worth giving away. 








ESTABLISHED REPUTATION 



SEWING SILKS 

-AND — 

Machine Twist 

ARE AHEAD OF ALL COMPETITORS: 

Hare been awarded the Highest Premiums at all 

Industrial Exhibitions. 

The following are noteworthy among the numerous 

Testimonials won by 

B E L D I NG’S SILKS. 

PRIZE MEDALS OF MERIT AT 

Cincinnati Industrial Expositions, 1870 and 1872. 

St. Louis Industrial Expositions, 1872, 1874, 1875. 

Baltimore, Maryland Institute, 1874. 

Philadelphia, 1874, and Centennial, 1876. 

The only GOLD MEDALS ever awarded for goods of iJ/ift class -were to 

Belding Bros. cB Co., at 

Sydney, N. S. W., 1878. 

Atlanta, Ga., Exposition, 188.. 

San Francisco, Mechanics’ Institute, 1883. 

San Francisco, California State Fair, 1S83. 





41 


have widened three ^mes, then knit twice each way, continuing to 
narrow at the end of the needle in the alternate rows, but omit¬ 
ting the widening at the beginning. Narrow three times at both 
ends of the needle, and bind off. 

The entire thumb should be knit in the moss stitch. Sew up 
the thumb part, and sew the triangular widened part, in the mit¬ 
ten, placing it so that the top of the thumb will be even with tho 
hand where the latter begins to narrow. Run a narrow ribbon ora 
bit of elastic braid through the two rows of holes in the wrist, fin¬ 
ishing with a bow on top. A row of shells may be crocheted on the 
wrist for a finish. This little mitten is easily enlarged to misses’ 
or ladies’ size. If preferred it may be knit plain, and a fancy pat¬ 
tern introduced on the back. 


Crocheted Edging. 



Make a chain of 10 stitches, join in a ring. 

1st row.—2 ch., 3 tr. in the ring, 5 ch., 1 sc. in the fifth ch. of the 
ring. Turn the work over and work back on the other side. 

2d row.—2 ch., 8 tr. under the five ch., 1 ch., 1 tr. between the first 
and second tr. of preceding row, 1 ch., 1 tr. between the 
second and third tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. between the third tr. and the 
two ch. Turn. (The chain stitches made at the beginning 
of a row always count as one treble.) 

3d row.—3 ch., then always 1 tr. separated by 1 ch. between the 
trebles of the preceding row. Turn. 

4th row.—Like third. 

5th row.—2 ch., 2 tr. between the first and second tr., then always 
3 tr. between the trebles of the preceding row. Turn. 

6th row.—3 ch., 1 sc. under the third of the little chain stitches that 
lie along the top of the preceding- row. Put the hook under 
both ribs of the chain. Make 9 of these little chains, then 5 
ch., 1 sc. in the last chain of the preceding row. This com¬ 
pletes one scallop, the five chain taking the place of the ten 
chain used in beginning. Repeat from the first row, always 
fastening to the previous scallop at the end of the first, third 
and fifth rows, as shown in the illustration. 

Half oz. knitting silk will make about 1 ^ yards of this pattern. 


42 


INSTRUCTIONS FOR BEGINNERS 

IN 

KNITTING AND CROCHETING. 


In the “ good old times” of our grandmothers, every young girl was taught to 
knit, as she was taught to read—it was a necessary part other education. But in 
these days, looms and knitting machines have crowded hand labor almost en¬ 
tirely out of market, and the elegant art of knitting has fallen almost entirely 
into disuse. Many young ladies have never learned to make even the simplest 
articles, but must depend upon the stores for everything they need. Aside, how¬ 
ever, from the inconvenience of this state of things, no machine work, be it ever 
so good, can equal in durability the patient productions of the human hand. 
Especially is this true of silk work. The Bilk stocking which is woven on a 
loom is too expensive for any but the wealthy to buy, and is soon worn out, 
while that knit by hand, if the silk be good, is almost indestructible, and costs 
but a trifle. A handsome lace may be knitted or crocheted at a cost of about 
forty cents per yard, which will equal in durability one which is purchased at a 
cost of ten or twelve dollars per yard. 

Nor is this all. Many elegant little triflea for gifts, fairs, etc,, cannot be 
found in the fancy stores. They must be made at home, and the value of the gift 
is enhanced by the labor of the giver. The pleasure of making them is also 
worth considering. The invalid who finds time hanging heavily on her hands, 
and wants some light occupation that will not tax her feeble strength; the busy 
housewife, to whom a bit of fancy work which can be caught up or laid down at a 
moments’ notice is a r^al boon; the young lady who finds enjoyment in the mere 
production of pretty things, all turn to knitting or crocheting with positive 
delight. 

For the benefit of those who have never learned these delightful arts we give 
a few elementary instructions in the forming of the simple stitches, beginning 
with knitting 

The first step is to cast on the stitches. There are several ways of doing this, 
but one only is admissible in silk. Make a slip knot in the end of the silk, insert 
a knitting needle in the loop and draw it up close to the needle. This makes the 
first stitch Take the needle containing it in the left hand, put the stitch close to 
the end of the needle, and hold it lightly between the thumb and forefinger. The 
■ilk must now be wound about the fingers of the right hand in such a way as to 
obtain perfect control over it. Pass it between the second and third fingers, 
holding the palm of the right hand towards the left; let the silk which is between 
the right hand and the needle, pass around the third and fourth fingers from the 
palm to the back, over the back until it reaches the second or middle finger, 
under this, and over the first, or forefinger, crossing it at the base of the n il. 
This brings the right hand close up to the left. The fingers must not be stiff nor 
held tightly together, but kept loose and flexible, always ready to let the silk slip 
loosely between them, or, by a little pressure, hold it more firmly, making the 
knitting tight or loose at will. It is hard at first, but “ practice makes perfect.” 

Having the silk properly wound about the fingers, take a second needle be¬ 
tween the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, and insert the end in the loop 
which is on the left hand needle. It must be inserted from the left side of the 
loop toward the right, and the end of the right hand needle slipped under the leit 
hand needle. The loop now crosses both needles. Keep the thumb of the right 
hand pressed lightly on its needle, and by a forward motion of the fingers throw 
the silk back of the right hand needle, drawing it down between the two needles, 
and across the loop. Draw out the right hand needle from the loop in such a way 
as to bring the crossing with it, thus making a second loop on the right hand 



43 


needle. Slip the loop thus formed on to the left hand needle, and you have two 
stitches. Repeat the process until there are as many stitches as you require. 

You are now ready to knit the first row. Proceed exactly as in casting on, 
-ntil you have drawn out the loop on the right hand needle. Then, instead of 
transferring it to the left hand needle, slip the loop off of the latter, leaving a 
completed stitch on the right hand needle. Repeat the process with the next 
stitch, and continue until all the stitches have been knitted off on to the right 
hand needle. This now becomes the left hand needle, and the empty needle being 
transferred to the right hand, the stitches are again knitted off for the second 
row. 

This constant repetition backward and forward on two needles, is called 
“garter stitch,” and makes simply a flat piece, alike on both sides. If it is de¬ 
sired to have a right and wrong side, every alternate row must be “purled ” 
Instead of inserting the right hand needle in the loop from left to right, it must 
be inserted from right to left; and over, instead of under, the left hand needle, 
'lhe silk (which must be previously brought to the front instead of the back of the 
needle, where it naturally falls), is then thrown between the needles and around 
the right hand needle towards the front, the stitch being completed by drawing 
the right hand needle out towards the back, and slipping the loop off as before. 

To knit a round, instead of a flat piece, as in a stocking, the stitches are ar¬ 
ranged on three needles, a fourth being reserved to knit with. his is always the 
right hand needle, and the stitches are knit off from each needle in succession, 
going around and around, instead of back and forth. 

When the work is completed it must be “bound off.” Knit two stitches, then 
slip the first one knit, over the second, leaving but one on the needle. Knit one 
more and repeat the process. Continue until all the stitches are used up, the 
final one remaining .on the right hand needle. Cut off the silk at a few inches 
distance from the needle and draw it through. Thread it in an ordinary darning 
needle, and sew it in firmly on the wrong side. 

It is sometimes necessary to pick up stitches from a piece of work already 
knitted, instead of casting them on. l or example, along the heel of a stocking. 
Use only a right hand needle; insert it in the stitch to be picked up. from front 
to back, throw the silk around as if for knitting an ordinary or “ plain ” stitch, 
and draw the loop through on the right side. 

Crocheting is done always with one needle, or “hook ” as it is often called. 
Wind the silk around the hand as if for knitting, but around the left hand instead 
of the right. Hold the hook in the right hand, with the open part of the hook 
towards you. Make a slip knot on the hook for the first stitch. Put the hook 
under the silk where it crosses the forefinger of the left hand, and by means of the 
hook, draw a loop through the first stitch This makes the second stitch. 
Repeat until there are as many stitches as desired. Of course there is never 
more than one at a time on the needle. This is called chain stitch, and is always 
used for a foundation. For a flat piece, work back and forth on the chain, turning 
the work at the end of each row. t or a round piece, join the ends of the chain 
by a stitch taken through them both, making a ring. 

After the foundation has thus been made, various stitches may be worked 
upon it. The simplest is double crochet. Having one stitch on the needle, put 
the hook through a stitch or chain of the foundation, and draw a loop through. 
There are now two stitches on the needle. r i ake up the silk from the fore-finger, 
and draw a loop through both these stitches at once. This completes one double 
crochet. 

For a treble crochet, throw the silk over the hook before putting it through 
the foundation. When the loop is drawn through, three stitches will be found on 
the needle. Draw a loop through two of these. wo will still remain—the first 
one, and the one just made. Take up the silk again and draw a loop through both, 
completing one treble crochet. For other stitches see “ Explanation of '1 erms.” 

Jn turning the work at the end of a row, a few chain stitches must always be 
made to keep the edge from drawing up. One chain stitch is considered equal 
to a single crochet, two to a double crochet, three to a treble, and four to a 
long treble. 


41 


EMBROI DERY. 


General Features of the Art. 

Silk embroidery occupies so large a place in modem fancy-work 
that a book on the use of silk which took no notice of it would be 
incomplete indeed. Kensington work is always pretty and appro¬ 
priate, and it is a mistake to suppose, as many do, that it can only 
be done in crewels. For all small articles, or delicate designs, filo¬ 
selle is far more appropriate, and etchings done in filoselle are not 
only more dainty, but in many cases more effective than those done 
in etching silk. The reason is evident. Etching silk has a firm, 
hard twist, and makes a stiff outline, like a cord; but the fine, soft 
filoselle fits easily in all the tiny lines and curves, and gives to the 
finished work the beauty and grace of a pen-and-ink sketch. Em¬ 
broidery silk has a place of its own in fancy stitches, but often takes 
also the place of crewel in Kensington work, where its superior 
lustre is desirable; as for instance, in embroidering a dress or sacque. 

It is not generally known that a good embroidery silk can be 
made to stand a good deal of washing with soap and water by soak¬ 
ing it in strong alum-water before using, provided, of course, that 
the washing is carefully done. The best way, however, is to wash 
the article in bran-water. Articles intended for washing should 
contain but few colors. Aside from the danger that the tints will 
run into each other, good taste demands that a thing which is to be 
washed should look washable. The elaborate shading called for in 
a wall panel, which is to take the place of a picture, is entirely out 
of place on a crash tidy to be used in the common sitting-room. 

The best way to learn the art of embroidery is to take a course 
of lessons from some competent teacher. It is, however, quite pos¬ 
sible to learn from books, with very satisfactory results. To those 
who have not the patience or inclination for solid embroidery, a 
wide field is opened in the judicious use of numerous fancy stitches 
by means of which very beautiful work can be produced, at a com¬ 
paratively small outlay of time and labor. The designs given will 
prove suggestive, and the stitches described in them of easy applica¬ 
tion in many ways. 

The first requisite for good work is good material. The best 
worker cannot do herself justice if compelled to use a silk which 
splits and frays in spite of all her care, or of which the lustre is de¬ 
stroyed notwithstanding the most careful handling, rendering her 
work dull and lifeless even before it is completed. In this case, as 
in most others, the best is the cheapest. She who has had her silk 
change color before reaching the end of a needleful will not fail to 
appreciate the lasting quality of a pure silk thread, and she who has 
suffered from tangled skeins (as who has not?) will not fail to see the 
advantage of having it neatly wound on the patented cards on which 
the embroidery silks of Belding Bros. & Co. °re furnished. This 
admirable contrivance puts an end to all the loss of time, patience 
or material, that tangling ordinarily causes. 



4S 


Outline Stitches. 

Perhaps the most 
important of all 
stitches is the “out¬ 
line.” It is not only 
useful in itself, but 
is the foundation, so 
to speak, on which 
all solidwork is built. 
There are in reality 
several varieties of 
it, though they are 
frequently con¬ 
founded with each 
other; the result of 
such confusion being 
a g”reat deal of bad 
work. What is often 
called outline or stem 
stitch is shown at c, 
Figure 19. The 
needle is brought 
up at 1, inserted at 
2, brought out 
again at 3, inserted 
at 4, etc. The re¬ 
sult is a line of 
stitches somewhat 
resembling a step- 
ladder, and varying 
from one to two 
threads in thick¬ 
ness. This is, in reality, side or slip stitch, and a very good 
stitch for some purposes, but it should never be used for outlines 
that are to be well defined, as in etchings. By slanting the needle 
a little, more than is shown in the illustration, a twist stitch is pro¬ 
duced which is very pretty in combination with other fancy stitches. 
Outline stitch, as it should be, is shown at a. In beginning it the 
needle is brought up at 1, inserted at 2, brought out at 3, inserted at 
4, brought out at b, etc. The illustration shows the stitches spread 
apart, for the sake of clearness, but by drawing them tight a smooth 
straight line of uniform thickness will be produced. Strictly npeak- 
ing, the needle should not be slanted at all, but brought out exactly 
at the top of the previous stitch. If, however, it is slanted, it must 
be to the right, as shown. In rounding curves, the stitches must be 
very short, to keep the shape with accuracy. At b is shown a variety 
in which the needle is slanted far to the right, producing a roll. 
This is often useful in accenting various parts of the work—a fold 
in a dress for example. 

All varieties of the outline stitch are difficult to reverse: that 
is, after working up the right side of a leaf, for instance, to come 
down on the left side, while holding the cloth in the same position. 
This should be attempted only by a very skillful worker. Even ex¬ 
perts in the art usually find it more convenient to turn the cloth in 
the hand, so as to work always f v om the bottom upwards. 



* b 

Fig. 19. 





46 


Kensington Stitch, 







i 



V,* 




























47 


In working leaves, many people fail to distinguish between work 
held in the hand and that done in a frame. In the latter, leaves 
should always be begun at the point; in the former, never. Figure 
20 illustrates the manner of working without a frame. If the leaf 
is serrated (t.e., with notched or pointed edges), begin at the mid¬ 
vein, and outline to the top of the first point. It usually gives a 
better shape to work a trifle beyond the stamped or traced outline. 
Bring the needle through to the right side of the work, and insert it 
again at the mid-vein, making the stitch as short as possible on the 
wrong side. (See a .) This gives a long stitch on the right side and 
in a large leaf it will probably need fastening down by catchim the 
needle in a fibre of the silk when outlining up again. Repea this 
process of outlining toward the edge and coming back to the mid¬ 
vein with a long stitch throughout the entire leaf, or, as it was 
graphically expressed by one lady, “ Climb up hill and slide down.” 

When the second point is reached, outline all the way to the top 
of it, as shown in b. Repeat with every point until the middle one 
of the leaf is reached. If you outline this, you will have an awk¬ 
ward place to fill, so you must work up gradually, keeping the 
stitches crowded together at the mid-vein, and spreading them a 
little on the edge. The stitches should take the direction indicated 
in c, and the dotted line represents a long stitch which should be 
made from the point to the top of the vein. Do not break off the 
silk, but go on down the other side in the same manner, outlining 
the short side of the points, as shown in the illustration, and always 
keeping a good slant from the edge to the mid-vein. To do this, and 
to keep the slant uniform on both sides, it will often be necessary 
to throw in short lines, on the edge or in the middle, as may be re 
quired. These are called extra stitches, and the skill of the worker 
is shown by her being able to put them in without detection. They 
should be lost in the regular, even lines. Side stitch is better than 
outline stitch, except on the edges, as it puts less silk on the wrong 
side. In a well-worked leaf the silk will be nearly all on the sur¬ 
face, very little being wasted underneath. 

This is the Kensington stitch, so often heard of, so seldom seen. 
The name is frequently applied to work in which the stitch is taken 
from side to side, as much silk appearing on the wrong side as on 
the right, but this is properly worsted or crewel embroidery. It 
should be employed only where it is desired to make one portion of 
the work thicker or heavier than another, and then only in em¬ 
broidery silk—never in filoselle. 

At d is shown the manner of working a leaf with smooth edges. 
Outline a little way up, “about to where the first point would be if 
there teas a point to be !” Let the long stitch lie in the curve, (silk 
is a flexible material, remember, and can be put where you want it), 
and get the proper slant gradually, and by means of extra stitches. 
Never leave an open space for the veins, but put them on in stem 
stitch, after the leaf is otherwise finished. 

Parallel-veined leaves (lily-leaves, grass, etc.,) consist of rows 
of side stitches running from bottom to top, as in e. The best way 
to keep the shape is to outline the outer edges and a line up the 
middle ; then fill up each half of the leaf separately. 


48 


Flower in Kensington Stich. 



Figure 21 shows the mode 
of working a flower in Ken¬ 
sington stitch. The principle 
is the same as in the leaves, 
alternate short and long 
stitches running always from 
the centre to the outer edge. 
The edge is so broad in pro¬ 
portion to the centre, the lat¬ 
ter, indeed, being usually a 
mere point, that a great many 
short lines and extra stitches, 
represented by the dotted 
lines, will be required. 

At b is shown a petal 
ready for shading, and just 
here is the fault into which 
the inexperienced worker is 
most apt to fall. Supposing 
the edge to be light, the centre 
dark, she will probably make 
all her lines of the same length, as are the dotted lines, or she will 
have a regular alternation of long and short lines. The good worker, 
on the other hand, will scarcely make two lines of the same 
length, and while making the edge perfectly smooth and solid, will 
leave spaces toward the centre—the more irregular the better. 
Then choosing for her second shade one but little darker than the 
first, she will blend the two, by means of these irregular spaces, so 
intimately that one can scarcely tell where the one begins and the 
other ends, except that the centre is darker than the edge. If the 
centre is to be much darker or lighter than the edge, use several 
shades, passing gradually from one tint to another until the desired 
tone is reached, but never, unless working autumn leaves, pass 
abruptly from dark to light. Some find it easier to work from 
the centre towards the edge, as at c. Except in flowers with very 
large centres, as daisies and sunflowers, it is best not to leave 
any opening, but fill the whole space, and put the knots which con¬ 
stitute the usual centre on top. 

These rules for shading apply equally well to leaves. Avoid a 
light, whitish streak down the side of a leaf, but follow Nature’s ex¬ 
ample and blend the tints gradually. Generally speaking, the tip 
of a leaf should be a little lighter than the base. 

Stems should be worked up and down in outline stitch, or, if 
wide, in side stitch, like the lily leaf. Never work them crosswise, 
but follow the natural grain of the plant. 



The Best is the Cheapest. 


Time, patience and money are thrown 
away if you buy inferior Knitting Silk, 

The labor of making articles in Knit 

* 

work or Crochet is at least • as 
great with the inferior spun 
silk as with Belding’s 

“SUPERIOR” 

PURE THREAD KNITTING SILK. 

The first cost is very nearly the same, but 
the results are widely different. An article 
made of spun silk soon loses its lustre ; it 
becomes dull and shabby, and wears out in 
a short time. Articles made with Belding’s 
Pure Thread Knitting Silk keep bright, and 
wear much longer than any other silk goods. 

O 4/ 



BROAD SILKS 


BELDINGBROS. & CO, 


MANUFACTURERS OF 


GROS GRAINS, 


SATINS. 


SERGES, 


SUF^AHS, 


yviOSCOVITES, 


OTTO/V1ANS, 


|)LEEVE JOININGS, &{C. 



Ar . 

i iio^iery, 


BEST QUALITY, PERMANENT LUSTRE; U N EQUALLED for WEAR. 


Guaranteed superior to any other in this country. 





French Knots. 



The centres of most embroidery flowers are constituted of 
French knots. The manner of working is shown in Figure 22. 
Bring the silk through the cloth where the knot is intended to be, 
and wind it three times around the needle as in a. Do not wind it 
towards you, but lay the needle back of the silk, and wind from you, 
as shown in the illustration. This seems a little matter, but it 
makes all the difference between a smooth, well-shaped knot and a 
shapeless bunch. Hold the silk firmly between the thumb and 
finger of the left hand, at a little distance from the needle. It 
need not be stretched tightly, had better not be, in fact, but must be 
kept smooth. Keeping the wound part still on the needle, turn the 
needle back (not towards you), and insert it in the cloth at about 
two threads distance from where it was brought out. (See b). 
Draw the silk through, keeping hold of it with the left hand as long as 
possible, to prevent tangling. The result should be a tight knot, as 
smooth and hard as a bead, and looking much like a bead sewed 
down with a single thread. Some people hold the silk down with 
the thumb alone, as at c, but it is much easier to guide it and keep 
it from tangling by holding it between the thumb and forefinger. 

In the centres of roses, poppies, etc., where it is’desired to put 
the knot on the end of a little stem, instead of inserting the needle 
where it was brought out, insert it where you want the end of the 
stem to be. Keep the silk up towards that end with the left hand, 
and the knot will take its place where the needle was inserted, thus 
making stem and knot with one stitch. 

French knots are used not only for the centres of flowers, but 
also in combination with other fancy stitches, in various ways. 
Blackberries are made entirely of French knots, put close together. 
Take two threads of silk in the needle if using embroidery silk. 
Of filoselle take a whole strand if the berries are large ; if they are 
small, half a strand. A bunch of berries should be shaded from 
very pale green through various tints of red, to black. A pretty 
effect is sometimes given by putting two shades of red in the needle, 
and making the knots of both at once. In working sumach the silk 
should be wound five times around the needle. 









50 


What is called “plush stitch” is often used for sumach. Make 
the knots a little distance apart, so as to show the cloth between. 
They should be of worsted, preferably dou de zephyr, put but three 
times round the needle. Then take two strands of filoselle and sew 
it down between the knots with a stitch of stout sewing silk, one 
stitch in a place, as in couching. Cut the filoselle off between 
every stitch, leaving ends about a quarter of an inch long. Put the 
stitches close enough together to cover the ground entirely, and cut 
the filoselle each time that a stitch is taken. There should be 
three or four shades of filoselle used in each bunch of sumach, the 
darkest next the stem, but the worsted and sewing silk may all be 
of one medium shade of red. After the work is otherwise com¬ 
pleted, clip the filoselle smooth and even with sharp scissors. 

Golden rod, cockscomb, and similar flowers are also worked in 
this stitch. The effect is often very pretty at first, if the colors are 
tastefully chosen, but it should never be used on an article that is 
to be leaned against, a tidy for instance, nor where it will get dusty. 
It soon mats down and loses its freshness, and of course it is im¬ 
possible to brush dust out of it. 

Tapestry Stitch. 


Figure 26 is an en¬ 
larged representation of 
tapestry stitch. Its 
effect when worked is 
that of a thickly stuffed 
satin stitch, but it is 
much more quickly and 
easily worked. Bring 
the needle out on the 
left side of the figure 
to be worked—a leaf, 
for instance-a little 
above the middle. (See 
illustration, 1.) Insert 
it at the top of the leaf, 
on the right side, (2) and 
bring it out at 3, taking 
as short a stitch as possi¬ 
ble. Insert it again on 
the right side of the leaf, 
(4) a thread or two lower 
than the place on the 
left side where you 
began. Carry the needle 
straight across the leaf, 
bringing it out at 5, ex¬ 
actly opposite the place where it was inserted. The next stitch is 
from 6 to 7, and so on, the threads always crossing from side to 
ide of the leaf. As you near the bottom, crowd the lower stitches 
as little closer together, and spread the upper ones a trifle apart, 
so that when you have finished, the upper ones alone will be 
visible. 



Fit:- 26. 




51 


Chain Stitches. 




Prominent among fancy 
stitches is the chain stitch. 

It is shown in an enlarged 
form at a, Figure 23, and is so 
well known as scarcely to re¬ 
quire description. The per¬ 
fection with which this stitch 
is imitated by machine has 
caused it to fall greatly but 
undeservedly into disuse. 

Several rows of very short 
chain stitches placed so 
closely together as nearly to 
overlap each other, give a 
peculiarly twisted effect, al¬ 
most defying detection as to 
the manner of its accom¬ 
plishment. On coarse cloth 
it may be done with em¬ 
broidery silk, but on fine linen 
or satin, only one thread of 
filoselle should be employed. 

It is impossible to give an 
accurate representation of 
this effect, which on account 
of its tediousness is suitable 
only for small spaces, but in 
such, it is pretty enough to 
repay amply the labor be¬ 
stowed on it. 

At b is an enlarged repre¬ 
sentation of a popular variety 
of chain stitch called “twist¬ 
ed chain.” The thread is 
looped under the needle ex¬ 
actly as in chain stitch, but 
instead of inserting the needle at the same point where it was 
brought out, inside the previous stitch, the needle is carried back 
to the upper end of the previous stitch, and inserted close to 
it on the left side. Worked with double thread in rather long 
stitches, it gives the effect of a heavy cord. It is also very pretty 
when done in two colors, scarlet and gold, for instance, or rose-pink 
and maroon. Put a thread of each in the needle, and work as if they 
were one thread. 

At c is shown a third variety usually called “point russe stitch.” 
It consists simply of long chain stitches arranged according to 
fancy, and each one caught down by a short, straight stitch across 
the end of the loop. 







52 


Fern, Yeining and Feather Stitches. 


x 

i 



Figure 24, a, is 
fern stitch. The nee¬ 
dle having been 
brought out at 1 is 
inserted at 2 and 
brought out at 3, 
drawing the silk 
tight. Insert the nee¬ 
dle at 4 and bring it 
out again at 2, loop¬ 
ing the silk under the 
needle as in button¬ 
holing. At Ms shown 
a variety of this same 
stitch, called “vein- 
ing stitch.” The 
illustration shows 
clearly the manner of 
working. Still an¬ 
other, and very 
common variety, is 
called “feather 
stitch,” and is shown 
at c. 


Couching Stitches. 


The couching stitch, shown in Figure 25, is one of the most 
useful of all stitches, and its varieties are almost endless. A strand 
of silk varying from one to ten threads in thickness is laid along 
the surface of the work, and caught down at regular intervals by a 
single stitch of the same or a contrasting color. (See a.) 

Three of these strands laid close together, with the cross 
stitches regularly alternated, as at b, form basket couching. This 
may be made as wide as is desired by means of additional rows. 
The strands should be quite thick—eight or ten threads if em¬ 
broidery silk is used, or at least live straxids of filoselle. Flat, or 






53 



antique couching is shown at c. A single thread of embroidery 
silk is used, or a single strand of filoselle, and there must always 
be several rows. The crossing stitches may be arranged in waving 
lines, as in the illustration, or in diamonds, or diagonal lines, or 
any other pattern that fancy suggests. In all couching, the crossing 
thread must be much finer than the foundation. Two threads of 
filoselle form a good crossing in nearly or quite all cases. 


Outline Designs. 

The outline figures, 35 
and 37, need no description. 
They are suitable for tidiea, 
pincushion covers, etc., and 
may be enlarged to any de¬ 
sired size, and worked in col¬ 
ors, or in various shades of 
one color. 

Figure 39 is also pretty in 
outline, but may be made very 
effective by a combination of 
solid work and fancy stitches. 
Choose for the foundation a 
very fine linen, either white 
or cream. Work the top of 
the table in flat couching with 
medium brown (No. 86) em- 

























54 


broidery silk. The edge in half-cordonnet, of dark wine (No. 134£). 
Half-cordonnet differs from cordonnet only in omitting the second 
row of running stitches. The legs should be worked solid, in side 
stitch, with seal brown filoselle (No. 88). The outside of the vase 
should be of azure blue filoselle (No. 66). Take one, or at most two 
threads in the needle, and work successive rows of very fine chain 
stitches, putting them so close together that the edge of one row 
overlaps the edge of the preceding row. Omit the pattern on the 
vase, and let the rows of chain stitch follow the outlines of the vase. 
For the rim, thread the needle with the same blue and old gold (No. 
82), and work successive rows of twisted chain, putting them close 
together, so as entirely to cover the linen. The inside of the vase 
should be done in Kensington stitch with the old gold, shading it at 
the bottom with dark old gold (No. 82.1), so as to give the proper 
effect for the inside of the vase. Let the stitches all radiate from 
the centre, that is, the point where the stem of the flower disappears. 
The stem itself is of dark golden olive filoselle (No. 136), worked in 
stem stitch. The leaves are in side stitch, of olive bronze filoselle 
(No. 136^). The flowers may be worked in point russe, or one 
straight stitch for each ray. They should be of rose filoselle (No. Ill); 
and the centres, a little group of French knots in the old gold filoselle. 




Figures 36, 38 and 43 are borders for tidies, table scarfs, bureau 
covers, etc. They are given in full size, and may be worked in any 
stitch or combination of stitches and colors that fancy suggests. 


































Fig- *!• 

















56 


Clocks foe 
Stockings. 



Figures 40, 41 and 42, 
are clocks for stockings. 
They should be worked 
in satin stitch (over and 
over), with saddlers’silk, 
and may be done in the 
color of the stocking or 
a contrasting color. Care 
must be taken to leave 
the stitches very loose. 
Figure 42 is suitable only 
for the top of the foot 
The others may be plac¬ 
ed on top or at the sidos, 
as is preferred. 


/ 



Fig. 4*• 


1 









ALL THE 


Knitting Silks 


EXCEPT THOSE OF 

Belding Bros. & Co., 

Are made of Spun Silk. 

Belping's ”Superior" Pure Thread Knitting 
Silk is really cheaper than any other, be¬ 
cause the articles made with it will last much 
longer, and always look bright. 

c? 7 v C? 

Spun Silk, being made of waste material, 
should be sold at a lower price than Belpixg's 
Pure Silk. Articles knitted of Spun Silk 
look shabby and are soon worn out. 


BELDING BROS. & CO. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 

A.CHINE T WIST, 


ft 


Jewing jSiLKS, 

jSuPERioFp ^ure Thread 

nitting Silk, 


J^ENSINGTOn” ^yWBROIDERY. 
'plLLING JSlLKS, 




jS>TITCHING jSlLKS, O^C. 


Mills at ROCKVILLE, Conn., 

NORTHAMPTON, Mass., 

MONTREAL, Can., 

SAN FRANCISCO, Cal. 


SALESROOMS AND OFFICES AT 


455 BROADWAY, New York, 

105 SUMMER ST., Boston, 

6th and ARCH STS., Philadelphia, 
28-30 ST. GEORGE ST., Montreal, 


136 RACE ST., Cincinnati, 

147-149 FIFTH AVE., Cliieago, 
521 ST. CHARLES ST., St. Louis, 
585 MARKET ST., San Francisco. 





57 


Border for Table Scarfs. 






58 


Figure 28 is reduced from the border of a skirt worked nearly a 
hundred and fifty years ago. It formed part of a wedding outfit, 
and is quaint enough to merit reproduction, though few brides of 
the present day would have patience to imitate it in the exquisitely 
fine cotton originally employed. Worked in embroidery silk, how¬ 
ever, with carefully chosen colors, it makes an exceedingly pretty 
border for table scarfs. It should be enlarged, for working, to a 
breadth of five and a half inches, preserving all the proportions. 
The stitches used are indicated in the illustration. Each alternate 
large leaf is worked in New England stitch. (See a.) Beginning at 
the point, take a short stitch at the right hand edge of the leaf, in a 
horizontal direction, pointing the needle from right to left, as in 
ordinary sewing. The next stitch is exactly opposite, on the left 
hand edge, the needle pointing from left to right. Then back to 
the right hand, etc., allowing the threads to cross, as shown in the 
illustration. The stitches may be made close together so as to 
cover the ground entirely, or be spread apart more or less, accord¬ 
ing to fancy. 

The manner of working the long knots for the alternate leaves is 
shown at b. Bring the needle out at 1, insert it at 2, (just the 
length of a stitch, say three sixteenths of an inch,) and bring it out 
again at 1. Before drawing it through, wind the silk smoothly 
several times around the needle. Draw needle and silk through the 
tube thus formed, holding it firmly under the thumb of the left 
hand until the thread is drawn entirely through, then turn the tube 
towards 2, and draw the stitch up tight. Insert the needle at 2, and 
bringing it out on the wrong side, draw it down tight. This is apt 
to be a very troublesome stitch at first, but after a little practice it 
can be done quite rapidly. In the original these stitches, though 
arranged in the manner shown, were placed so close together as 
entirely to cover the ground. 

The edge of each leaf is closely buttonholed between the double 
lines. The small leaves are all done in New England stitch, the 
edges outlined. The acorns are also outlined, and a line of long 
knots is carried up the middle and across the top of the cup. The 
stems are simply worked over and over, in the well known satin or 
laid stitch. 

A very pretty scheme of color for this design would be as 
follows: For the foundation, a table scarf, say, use furniture 
sateen, of a deep cream color. Make the large leaves in New Eng¬ 
land stitch, of pale tea color, (No. 149 Belding Bros. emb. silk,) 
and those in long knots of dark tea color, (No. 150). Buttonhole both 
with dark moss color, (No. 102). The bunches of small leaves 
alternately in the pale tea green, outlined with the dark, and vice 
versa. The long knots in the acorns of amber, (No. 145), outlined 
with olive brown, (No. 146). The stems of amber. 


Lamp Shade. 

At figure 29 is shown a section of a lamp shade. Cut from pale 
blue satin eight of these sections, each measuring eight and a half 
inches in length, four and three- quarters in breadth at the widest 
part, and one and an eighth at the narrowest. (These measure 


5S 


ments do not 
allow for seams.) 
The fancy stitch 
between the 
straight lines i s 
simply a variation 
of the old fash¬ 
ioned herring¬ 
bone, and the 
manner of work¬ 
ing it is clearly 
sh o w n at a. It 
may be done in 
antique gold (not 
old gold) em¬ 
broidery silk, (B. 
B. & Co. silk, 
No. 144). 

The straight 
lines may be out¬ 
lined in sultan 
red, (No. 132), but 
will be much pret¬ 
tier done in cor- 
donnet. With the 
sultan red run the 
lines as in ordi¬ 
nary sewing, but 
leave the stitches 
quite loose, and 
make them of 
equal length o n 
the right and 
wrong sides. 
Then run them a 
second time, cov¬ 
ering the spaces 
left between the 
stitches in the first 
row, (See b). Now 
take a thread of 
shell pink (No. 
107), and slip the 
needle under every 
stitch, as shown in 
c, not, catching it 
in the satin at all. 
This gives a pret¬ 
ty cord of the com¬ 
bined colors. 

In the centre of 
each section 
should be em- 
broidered a small 



Fig. 29* 










60 


spray of dowers. That shown in the illustration is the Japanese 
almond. The flowers should be worked in Kensington stitch 
with one thread of pink filoselle, (No. 107). The centres, tiny knots 
of cream yellow, (No. 76). The stems brown, (No. 85), worked in 
stem stitch. The plant never has leaves at the time of flowering, 
and the sharp spikes must be worked as parts of the stem. The 
buds are worked like the flowers. Line each section of the shade 
with pale pink silk, and join the sections' at the top by a ribbon 
binding of pink or blue. This makes a flexible shade, to put over 
one of glass or porcelain. It can be stiffened by an interlining of 
pasteboard, and the sections overhanded together from the top 
down to the bulge. It can then be attached to a metal top, and 
used on an ordinary lamp chimney. 

Balloon Stitch. 

Since the days of our great-grand mo¬ 
thers, balloon stitch has become almost 
entirely obsolete, principally from its 
tediousness; but it is too pretty to be 
altogether lost. Our illustration shows 
it greatly magnified, but it should al¬ 
ways be done on a material of which the 
threads can be easily counted. It must 
be so fine, however, in proportion to the 
silk employed, as to allow of the ground¬ 
work being entirely covered. Holland 




duck, coarse crash, or embroidery linen are suitable materials to 
work on with embroidery silk. If a full strand of filoselle is used, 
the foundation may be of fine canvas. It would be tedious to 
describe this stitch in words, but the illustration shows clearly 
the manner of working. 





































































Book Cover* 



Fig. 30 . 


A handsome cover for a Bible or prayer-book is always a f uaeful 
present. At figure 30 is shown a design which, though simple and 
easily worked, is exceedingly rich in effect. The cover which is 
simply a straight piece, large enough to fit around the book from 
edge to edge, may be cut of maroon velvet, and the lines worked 
with embroidery or saddler’s silk, in a cordonnet of azure blue, 
(No. 436) and gold (No. 80), or may be couched with scarlet filoselle 
(No. 129) three strands in thickness, the crossing threads of antique 
gold, (No. 144). An initial or monogram should be worked in the 
centre with filoselle of the same shade of gold as that employed in 
the lines. Line the cover with maroon silk, and on each side, near 
the edge, put a broad strap of the silk, sewed in at top and bottom. 
The cover of the book may be slipped under this, and no other 
fastening will be required. 








62 



Fig. 3t< 








Fig. 32. 




















64 


Figures 31 and 32 are fans. The size for working depends some¬ 
what upon the sticks, but5£ inches in width, and 19 between the ex¬ 
treme uter edges is a good average size. Figure 31 would be very 
handsome for a fan of heavy white silk or satin, worked entirely 
in gold. If it is prefered to use colors, the curved lines of the bor¬ 
der may be done in embroidery silk, in cordonnet of coral pink 
(No. 126) and amber (145), or better still, a twisted chain of rose, 
(No. 111). The flowers should be of filoselle w r orked in Kensintgon 
stitch, either light coral pink, (No. 125£) or cream, (No. 76). 

The centre figure should also be done with filoselle in Kensing¬ 
ton stitch. Its central division should be in dark antique gold, 
(No. 144J), the division on either side of the centre in amber, (No. 
145), and the outer divisions in olive brown, (No. 146). 

The large figures on each side of the fan are likewise in Ken¬ 
sington stitch, and worked with filoselle. Beginning in the centre 
of the fan, work one leaf on each side with light coral pink, (No. 
125£). The next three leaves and stems are of coral pink. (No. 
126), the remaining three of cherry, (No. 127), and the two scrolls 
at the end of light scarlet, <No. 128). 

Having supposed this fan to be of white silk, we will consider 
figure 32 as made of black satin. The prettiest way would be to 
work the spaces between the waving lines solid, in stem stitch, with 
one, or at most two threads of filoselle, beginning at the bottom 
with a dark shade, and making each division a shade lighter until 
the edge is reached. For example, let the lowest division be of 
maroon, (No. 133). The next would be siiltan, (No. 132), the next 
cardinal, (No 131,) the next dark scarlet, (No. 130), the next scarlet, 
(No. 129), and the last light scarlet, (No. 128). If this is more 
work than is desired, the lines alone may be worked, either in stem 
stitch, cordonnet, or twisted chain. They may be shaded in the 
same way as before, or, as there are seven lines, it would be a pretty 
fancy to use the colors of the rainbow. The water should be done 
in outline stitch with one thread of opera blue filoselle, (No. 60) if 
the fan is black, or Nile green (No. 155) if it is white. The fish 
should be done in outline with silver gray, (No. 70). 





Fig. 33- 


BELDING BROS. & CO. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 

^chine Twist, 


T 

JSeWING jSlLKS, 

' ^UPERIOPy' ^URE ~pHREAD 

T 

^VENSINGTOn” EMBROIDERY. 

Filling |Silks, 

°titching Silks, <yc. 


NITTING pILK, 


Mills tit ROCKVILLE, Conn., 

NORTHAMPTON, Mass ., 

MONTREAL, Can., 

SAN FRANCISCO, Cal. 


SALESROOMS AND OFFICES AT 


456 BROADWAY, New York, 

105 SUMMER ST., Boston, 

6 th and ARCH STS., Philadelphia, 
28-80 ST. GEORGE ST., Montreal, 


136 RACE ST., Cincinnati, 

U7-140 FIFTH ATE., Chicago, 
521 ST. CHARLES ST., St. Louis, 
585 MARKET ST., San Francisco. 




ALL THE 


Knitting Silks 

EXCEPT THOSE OF 

Belding Bros. & Co 


Are made of Spun Si Ik. 


Belding’s “Superior” Pure Thread Knitting 
Silk is really cheaper than any other, be¬ 


cause the articles made with it will last much 


longer, and always look bright. 


Spun Silk, being made of waste material, 
should be sold at a lower price than Belding’ s 
Puke Silk. Articles knitted of Spun Silk 
look shabby and are soon worn out, 

t/ 


65 


Bordering Figure. 


Figure 33 if 
nicely worked, is a 
very pretty figure 
for ornamenting 
various articles. 

The outer lines 
should be quite 
heavy; couching, 
cordonnet worked 
with double thread, 
or twisted chain in 
two colors being 
all appropriate 
stitches. The leaf¬ 
shaped spaces may 
be worked in tapes¬ 
try stitch, giving a 
solid appearance, 
or in veining or 
New England 
stitch ; the stitches 
spread apart, so as 
to give a lace effect. In this case both they and the circle at their base 
should be outlined in chain stitch. The inner circle may also be 
outlined, or worked in satin stitch as a solid spot. The colors used 
will depend, of course, on the color of the foundation. 

Take, for instance, a table scarf of olive green felt to be worked 
with embroidery silk. The design should be enlarged to a width of 
about 4^ inches, and repeated at intervals across the ends. The 
outer lines, a twisted chain of blood orange, (Belding’-s No. 100), 
and black. The leaf forms, veining stitch of buff, (No. 96). The 
stitch should be taken from side to side of the leaf, so as to cover 
the surface, but not closely. The chain stitch around the edge 
of the leaf, wood brown, (No. 84). The circle at their base, chain 
stitch of the blood orange, and the inner circle a solid spot of the 
wood brown. This would also be a pretty border for piano covers. 

- Another very neat way would be to make an applique design of 
it. Suppose the object to be a scarf for an upright piano, the 
material an old gold satin or sateen. Enlarge the design as before. 
Cut the leaf forms with the circle on which they rest, out of one 
piece of peacock blue velvet or plush, and couch them down with the 
same shade of filoselle, using three strands for velvet and five for 
plush. Belding’s No. 142 would be a pretty shade. Make the 
outer circle a couching of dark peacock green (Belding’s No. 158), 
the crossing threads of dark old gold (Belding’s No. 82^), and the 
centre a solid spot of the same. If desired, the whole outer form 
can be cut out of dark old gold satin, and applied, and the plush 
applied on that. This would be very rich. 

A few directions for preparing applique may be of service. The 
figure to be applied must be stamped or traced on the material from 
which it is to be cut, and. also on the material to which it is to be ap¬ 
plied. The latter must then be tacked smoothly on a board or table. 




66 


Having cut, the figure from the velvet, or whatever the material may 
be, cover it thickly on the back with book-binders’ paste, and press 
it down on the foundation, the exact spot being indicated by the 
stamping. The tacking down is to keep the foundation from drawing 
in wrinkles while drying. After it is perfectly dry, the velvet must 
be closely hemmed with fine thread or silk, to keep the raw edges 
from raveling. It is then ready for the couching. 



Stamping and Embroidery, Crewels, Filoselle 

OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS, 

Embroidery, Knitting Silk, Etc., 


Lessons given by mail, and work 
mail only, 


commenced to order. Address by 

MISS VAN DYCK, 

112 AV est 43d Street, 

New York. 
















BROAD SILKS. 


BELDING BROS. & CO., 

MANUFACTURERS Ol- 

GROS GRAINS, SURAHS, 

/ 

SATINS, MOSCOVITES, 

SERGES, OTTOMANS, 

SLEEVE LININGS, &c. 


Belding’s Silk Hosiery, 

Best Quality ; Permanent Lustre ; Unequalled for Wear. 


Guaranteed Superior to any other in this 

Country. 



THE CONTRAST 


BETWEEN 


BELD 




CO 


u 


SUPERIOR ” 


Pure Thread KNITTING SILK 


AND THE 


KNITTING SILK M/DE BY 0THE(| MANUFACTURERS. 


Belding’s Silk may cost a trifle 
more than spun silk, but it is really 
cheaper. 

--o- 

In making the article with Beld¬ 
ing’s Silk, all its parts will have a 
uniform lustre. 

-O- 


Spun Silk, being made of waste 
material, should be sold for less 
than Belding’s Silk. 

-o- 

The article made of spun silk 
will have no lustre : the parts that 
are most handled in making will 
lose their brightness. 


After months of handling and 
wear, the article made of Belding’s 
Silk retains its freshness and brill¬ 
iancy. 


-O- 

After a few weeks’ use the article 
made of spun silk looks as if made 
of cotton. 



-O 


Articles made of Belding’s Silk 
wear well, last a very long time, 
and keep their beauty to the last. 


Articles made of spun silk, be¬ 
sides becoming shabby, wear out 
very soon. 


Don’ l allow your shopkeeper lo impose upon you by selling you some 
other silk and representing that it is “just as good as Belding sg 





























* 


67 




Fig- 36 - 






































/ 




68 



Figure 34 is a sofa pillow, and should be enlarged to the size of 
the pillow. Fifteen inches square is a good working size. The 
foundation may be satin, sateen, or very heavy silk. A decided 
Oriental effect may be produced as follows: Make the foundation of 
a dark but bright green. The outer lines of the diamond-shaped 
figures a basket couching (three rows), of filoselle, jising for 
the outer of the three rows, cardinal (No. 131), and for the middle 
row, scarlet (No. 129). The inner lines of the diamonds are 
also basket couching of the same colors, but reversed, i.e., the 
cardinal between two rows of scarlet. The vine may be worked 
solid or in outline with two threads of filoselle, using cream (No. 76), 
or antique gold, (No. 144). The fieur de lys shapes in the pointed 
spaces are to be cut from light peacock blue plush or velvet, and 
couched on with the same shade. (No. 141 is the proper tint.) Cut 
the entire shape from one piece and couch all the lines. This gives 
the same effect as cutting several little pieces, and is far less trouble. 
The centre figure is also an applique of old gold, (No. 82) or of 
amber, (No. 145.) 



















69 


SILK MANUFACTURE. 


A few facts concerning the largest manufacture of silk thread 
in this country, will prove of interest to many of our readers. 
Belding Bros. & Co. have their principal mills at Rockville, Conn., 
and Northampton, Mass.; they have also large ones at Montreal, 
Can., and San Francisco, Cal. The mills at Rockville and North¬ 
ampton use 1,0C0 pounds of silk per day. In all branches of th e 
manufacture a single strand of silk must be produced, which is 
usually doubled for yarns or trebled for machine twist. This single 
strand into which every day at those mills a half a ton of silk is 
converted, is long enough to go around the entire globe six times; 
two days’ production would more than span the distance between 
the earth and the moon. r 

The mills at Northampton and Rockville are substantial brick 
buildings, respectively four and live stories in height, 300 to 400 
feet in length and 42 to 45 feet wide. About 1,200 operatives are at 
work in these mills, and 400 more at Montreal and San Francisco. 

The raw silk which comes from Asia and Southern Europe has 
to go through a great variety of processes before it is converted into 
thread. The first thing requisite is to assort the raw silk into lots 
of a uniform thickness of fibre. Then a kind of gum with which 
the insect has covered the fibres must be removed by soaking and 
washing. The removal of the gum makes the silk soft and pliable; 
it is then ready for winding upon large bobbins. The next process 
is performed by the doubling machinery; this brings together a 
sufficient number of fibres to make a strand of a given thickness. 
An important and very ingenious feature of this machine is a con¬ 
trivance by which the breakage of a single fibre causes the particu¬ 
lar bobbin where the fault occurs to stop until the broken fibre is 
tied. 

The doubled thread has now to be spun so as to consolidate the 
fibres of the strand. The long rows of spindles and “ fliers ” that 
do this work turn so rapidly as to seem motionless. A speed of 
10,000 revolutions per minute is not at all unusual. The single 
strand being thus completed, a “matching” machine takes it in 
hand and brings together two or three strands to form the thread; 
two strands for sewing silk, three for machine twist. Next a 
“twisting” machine performs its service, and gives the needed 
twist to complete the thread, which now is transferred to the 
“cleaning machine.” 

Formerly the process known as “ cleaning ” was performed on 



TO 


the single strands; one of the great improvements in manufacture 
is the operation of a patented machine which cleans the completed 
thread, not only taking off all burrs and fluff from the thread, but 
also giving to it a firmness and gloss which are peculiarly charac¬ 
teristic of the goods produced by Beading Bros. & Co. The thread 
has to go through several other processes besides those which have 
been described. It undergoes more than one washing of soap and 
water. A stretching machine reduces it to a uniform tension.— 
This is done while the thread is wet; it must afterwards be dried 
thoroughly. A reeling machine cuts it off in lengths of 350 yards, 
and these lengths are carefully weighed, so as to assort them, as the 
weight determines the grade or letter by which the thread is after¬ 
wards to be designated. The dyeing of the thread is one of the 
most important of the various processes to which it is subjected; it 
requires experience as well as knowledge. Belding Bros. & Co. dye 
their silks on their own premises, and are thus enabled to insure 
purity of color. 

The thread thus prepared is wound by an ingenious spooling ma¬ 
chine on the stamped spools. There is also an admirable contri¬ 
vance which insures the winding on each spool of the exact number 
of yards it is intended to contain; this device is also the subject of 
a patent owned by the firm. Although not less than 150 different 
varieties of thread are made, including machine-twist, button-hole 
silk, shoe-sewing silk, knitting silk, and Kensington embroidery 
silk, the general system of manufacture above described applies 
throughout. 

The business has also been extended to the manufacture of 
hosiery and of woven goods. The silk hosiery made by Bei.dixg 
Bros . <fc Co. has all the points of superiority which distinguish their 
silk thread and knitting silk, and although this branch of manufac¬ 
ture is comparatively recent, it has already made its mark in popu¬ 
lar favor, as evinced by a large demand. 

The surprising growth of this manufacturing enterprise, which 
has arisen from small beginnings, is mainly due to the uniform ex¬ 
cellence of the goods made, and the continuous endeavor to make 
only the very best. To keep the goods up to the highest standard, 
the most advanced machinery is used, and skilled labor is em¬ 
ployed. The working force is mostly composed of operatives born 
in this country, though some have been brought from Europe for 
~ special departments of weaving and hosiery manufacture. It is 
found that the most careful and efficient work is done by intelligent 
and respectable operatives; cheap labor is not profitable. 


Broad Silks. 


B 


ELDING 



/ 



jCo., 


MANUFACTURERS OF 


Gros Grains , 
Satins, 


Surahs, 


Serges , 


Moscovites , 
Ottomans, 


Sleeve Linings , 


Belding’s Silk Hosiery 


Z>e\j/ Quality; Permanent Lustre; Unequalled for Wear . 


GUARANTEED SUPERIOR TO ANY OTHER 

IN THIS COUNTRY. 























•> 


Belding Bros. & Co 

4 

a ir . , i c n .. 

I C eiitSiHi|li>n (9inbtcHtVti| ; 

PURE SILK, 

WOUND ON PATENT CARDS. 



)) 



Mbit never Taniles. 


ONLY THE SILK ACTUALLY USED IN THE 
WORK IS TAKEN OFF, THE REST OF 
THE SILK REMAINS NEATLY 
WOUND ON THE CARD. 

All Workers in Embroidery appreciate the 
convenience of the patent cards. 




( C 


Kei^iijgtoi) ” LnqbroideTy 


HiiS iTO EQTJAX,. 






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